Snowblower: Leaks Oil

Oil seals are located around the input and output shafts of the crankshaft, and stop oil from leaking out. Their failure can cause a mess and could also cause engine damage if enough oil leaks out. For the replacement of the rear seal, start by removing the chute gear box support bracket by removing the clip holding the chute control rod, then removing the rod itself. Next, remove the pin on the support bracket and pull out the pin. Remove any nuts securing the gear box, then remove the gear box and chute. Remove the bolts securing the belt cover, and then remove the belt. Release the drive belt idler pulley tension spring, then remove the bolts securing the gear box support bracket, and finally remove the bracket. Next, remove all the covers and heat shrouds around the engine. Remove all knobs on the cover. Remove the starter switch box, if your unit has electric start. Remove the fuel line on the back of the primer bulb and disconnect the wires on the back of the key or stop switch. Remove the fuel line on the tank, making sure you have something to catch the fuel. Remove the tank. Remove the blower housing. Next, remove the flywheel and starter cup mounting nut with a socket wrench and pipe wrench, holding the output shaft on the opposite end of the engine. Remove the starter cup and fan blade, then tap the flywheel with a mallet to loosen, then pry the flywheel off the engine. Remove the alternator, if equipped. Use a 1/8 bit to drill a hole into the oil seal, then screw in a small screw. Next, use pliers to pull on the screw to remove the old seal. You should then apply a thin layer of oil to the outside of the new seal, then fully seal the new seal inside the engine block. Use a socket big enough to make contact with the oil seal or a piece of plastic pipe, and tap it evenly into place with a mallet. Reinstall the alternator, making sure the keyway is installed on the crankshaft and facing the 3 o’clock position. Reinstall the flywheel. Reinstall the fan blade and starter cup, and tighten down using a socket and the pipe wrench. If necessary at this point, you can realign the ignition module by rotating the magnets away from the module, then loosening the bolts. Pull the module back and retighten. Install a business card between the module and flywheel, then rotate the flywheel magnets to the module. Loosen the bolts and the magnets will pull the module into place, then retighten the bolts. Remove the business card. Reinstall the blower housing, making sure to reinstall any grounding wires under the bolts. Reinstall the fuel tank tight. Reinstall the starter switch control box retainer. Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel tank and re-clamp. Reinstall the control panel, hooking back up the primer bulb fuel line and wires to any stop keys or ignition switches. Reinstall the lower switch box screw. Reinstall the knobs onto the control panel. Reinstall any covers and heat shrouds around the engine. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Reapply the tension on the drive belt and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward. Also ensure that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position, then reinstall the rod.

O-rings provide a seal to prevent oil leakage from tubes and caps. If oil is leaking from the fill tube, simply pull the tube out. It may be held in by a bolt and just pressure-fitted in. Once out, remove the old O-Ring, clean both mounting surfaces, reinstall the new O-Ring, reinstall the tube, and refasten any bolts or nuts holding it in place.

Gaskets perform the duty of filling the space between 2 or more joining parts to prevent leakage. The procedure for gaining access to the engine will vary as all snow blowers are assembled differently. Yours may not require removing as many items or following as many steps as below, but we want to give you as complete a picture as possible. In order to access the valve cover gasket, start by removing any hoses from the valve cover, then remove the bolts securing the valve cover, then remove the valve cover, and pull off the old gasket. Clean both mating surfaces, then install a new gasket, reinstall the valve cover, and tighten down the bolts in an alternating pattern. Reinstall the hose. For the head gasket, start by removing the chute gear box support bracket by removing the clips holding the chute control rod, then removing the rod. Next, remove the pin on the support bracket, and also remove any nuts securing the gear box. Remove the gear box and the chute. Remove the bolts securing the belt cover and remove the belt itself. Release the drive belt idler pulley tension spring, then remove the bolts securing the gear box support bracket. Next, remove all covers and heat shrouds around the engine. Remove the throttle control and choke knobs on the panel. Remove the starter switch box if your unit has electric start. Remove the fuel line on the back of the primer bulb and disconnect the wires on the back of any key or stop switches. Remove the fuel line on the tank, making sure you have something to drain the fuel into. Remove the tank. Remove the carburetor choke plate and gasket. Remove all linkages from the carburetor and remove the carburetor and gasket. Remove the muffler. Remove the valve cover bolts and the valve cover, then remove the throttle plate. Un-hook the governor spring and set the plate aside. Remove any air shields if equipped. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the piston to the “up” position with the rocker arms loose. Remove the cylinder head bolts and pull off the cylinder head. Remove the old head gasket and clean off both mating surfaces. Install the new valve cover gasket. Make sure the push rods are in place, as well as ensuring that the exhaust valve is in the right position. Next, reinstall the cylinder head and the cylinder head bolts. Tighten the bolts down in an alternating pattern for proper gasket seating, ensuring you follow the manufacturer’s specified torque levels. Rotate the engine to make sure the rocker arms pivot properly. Reinstall the spark plug. Reinstall any air shields, and reattach the governor spring to the plate, and reinstall the plate. Reinstall the valve cover, tightening the bolts in an alternating pattern. Reinstall the muffler gasket and the muffler. Reinstall the carburetor gasket and the carburetor, and reconnect any linkages and springs. Reinstall the choke plate and reattach the linkage. Reinstall the gas tank, and reattach the fuel line and clamp. Reinstall the control panel, making sure to align everything properly, and hook everything back up. Once the panel is back in place, reinstall the switch box. Reinstall the choke and throttle knobs. Reinstall any covers and heat shrouds around the engine. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward. Also check that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position before finally reinstalling the rod.