Rod-push 690982

Removed valve covers. Found bent rods. Ordered replacement rods. Questioned what caused the bent push rods. Watched the video and figured out the valve guides had come out which bent the rods. Followed instructions on resetting them and pinging the head to prevent the valve guides from slipping out. I did remove the head but is not always necessary.

1. Removed valve cover
2. Removed valve springs and push rods
3. Used socket and hammer to push valve guides back in.
4. Reinstalled valve springs and new push rods
5. Adjusted valve clearance
6. Reinstalled valve covers with new gaskets
7. Washed engine thoroughly

Watched a YouTube video on repair and adjustment of valves. Gathered necessary tools to inspect for parts necessary for repair. Ordered parts, including some I might need in the future. Received the parts I bought from ereplacementparts.com, installed the aluminum rod, and adjusted valves per the video on You Tube. Tractor started right up and runs great. I am disabled with terrible back pain and was able to do this repair in under two hours. Feels great to make a difference by saving some money on repairs. In the video, they say you should check the valves every year when you tune it up. Seems a little excessive, but easy enough. The video describes a tractor that is hard to start, kind of kicking back on the starter like it is out of timing.

Plugs, spark and fuel ok. Removed valve cover to discover a bent push rod laying there. Problem now is there are two rocker arms and only one push rod??? I guess it went through the oil drain hole and lodged in the crankcase some place. No noise or signs of issues with a metal rod in the crankcase. The rod was bent because the rocker arm bolts backed out to the point they no longer held the rods in place. After tightening these bolts, I installed the new rods and adjusted the valve clearance.

Started out by replacing a magneto, but that wasn't the problem. Pulled the valve cover and found 2 bent push rods, part of the problem, finally discovered damaged valve guide, now we're getting somewhere. Non repairable item, ordered new head assembly, still not running, I got it to start once then quit, Pulled the valve cover again an rechecked valve adjustment, set to .004". Decided gas wasn't coming thru carburetor, ordered carburetor rebuild kit , rebuilt it and it still wouldn't run.
After noodling it around my more experienced friend and I decided to pull the carburetor apart again, and that is when I discovered the little O-ring wasn't in its recess where it belonged. Too bad there wasn't an instruction on how to put it together properly. It got pinched and was allowing too much gas thru and was flooding the engine.
Once we accomplished that and got everything back together the engine started right up, and now runs like a champ. I forgot to tell you, I've never been a real shade tree mechanic before, first time for everything. I'm 75 years old!
No I'm not Laurie, she pays the bills, I'm her old man.
Gabby

Pulled the head off. Put in the valves. Put it back together 😆

Pressed the valve guide back in place. Staked it on both ends. Re assembled with the new parts, & the engine is back running as it should. I'll monitor the guide periodically to check for future issues. If it does not stay in place the head will need replacing.

removed cylinder head, pressed valve guide back in place, peened valve guide, lapped valves, reassembled head , reassembled engine.

Remove shroud.
Remove carb and intake.
Remove valve cover and rocker arms.
Remove and replaced with new a head assembly.
Head bolts torqued to 18 ft lbs in three increments in a 5 point star pattern.
Rocker valve clearance adjusted to .003 to .005 cold intake and exhaust.

er,rocker arms,and then replaced push rods,rocker srm assembl