Gasket-intake 27355S

I soaked the carb in cleaner, ringed it off and blew out the ports and installed the new parts. The diaphragm was the main culprit but a new spark plug helped too.

1.removed the carb, replaced the fuel foot valve, removed the fast fuel jet, replaced. replaced the carb. intake gasget ,replaced governor spring, replace air cleaner element.
Removed old oil, place new oil in crank case,
Replace points that were locked tighted inplace, had to heat screws to remove, and the condenser screw had to be drilled out and retaped. Cleaned flywheel and coil to get a good spark.
replaced plunger and fly wheel key. Timed an set points .020
replaced spark plug and set to .o30. adjusted fast idle jet, edger now runs well and edges nicely. I'm out of room so have a nice day!

Removed the fuel tank and carb cleaned the carb and installed the rebuild kit. I cut the damaged metal out of the fuel tank, cleaned the rust out of the rest of the tank with a needle scaler and welded a new bottom onto the tank. Next I pulled the blower housing off and replaced the rewind spring. After that I pulled the housing off the chipper, took the flails apart and freed them up, cleaned the mouse nest out, gave everything a coat of paint.
Now I have a good chipper that starts on the second pull that I saved from going to the dump for very little money.

Removed Air cleaner, removed gas tank, removed exhaust and removed carburetor. Replaced intake gasket for carburetor, replaced fuel tank gasket, replaced exhaust gasket replaced air filter.
Tightened all bolts, adjusted throttle linkage and fuel valve. Started right up and no additional problems.

Cleaned out the gas tank.

Reattached the governor and throttle linkage including the stabilizer springs. Replaced diaphragm in the carburetor and air filter element. This 1978 5 hp John Deere log slitter runs and splits logs the way it use designed to do.

Take off carb and tank hardest thing is the governor linkage take a photo first I didn't and had to do a lot of thinking to get it all back the right way it started in 2 pulls and runs great

1. Remove carburetor/tank assembly.
a.disconnect throttle cable.
b.disconnect governor spring
2. Separate carburetor from tank, remove diaphragm and clean all thoroughly.
3. Make sure no old gasket material is remaining and all ports are clear/open.
4. Re-assemble diaphragm, carburetor and tank using new parts and gaskets.
5. Re-install carburetor/tank assembly on engine in reverse order as dis-assembly.
Muffler installation:
1. Flatten retaining tabs with a cold chisel or screwdriver and unbolt old muffler.
Note: In my case one of the bolts snapped off in the block so that was another can of worms, I filed the bolt flat as best that I could, center punched it (emphasis on center!) and drilled for an easy-out. Easy-outs didn't work, too much outward force so I drilled a little bigger and tapped it out. Use the proper size drill bits and make sure drilling is straight with the block!
2. Install new muffler and gasket then curl the retaining tabs to secure the bolt heads.

Cleaned all parts and replaced bad gaskets and diagram. With new fuel and 3 pulls ran great. 1971 model rototiller

Removed & dissembled Carb. Soaked in cleaner for 30 minutes. Washed in clear water. Reassembled with new gaskets. Replaced on engine. Primed carburetor, Started on first pull.