Drive-Starter

I probably could have gotten by just replacing the gear (eReplacementParts.com even told me it was most likely just the gear), but I chose to replace the whole drive-starter assembly because (a) it wasn't that much more expensive, and (b) I didn't want to discover during the gear replacement that I also needed another part in the assembly.

The instructions sent with the drive-starter assembly were very brief, but quite clear and more than adequate. After I finished, the satisfaction I got from turning the key and hearing the sweet sound of the flywheel turning and the engine firing made it worth every penny I spent repairing it myself and every dollar I didn't spend having someone else do the repair!

Just took the starter off. Very easy to do. Removed the round retainer ring. This was a little hard to do. Be sure and watch where the ring fly's to so you don't lose it. Then install starter back the way it came off. very simple to do. I also referred to instructional the camE with the part.

Removed starter, replaced gear assembly kit according to instructions, reinstalled starter.

1. Unbolted and removed the starter using box wrenches. You may want to unhook your battery so that you do not risk being shocked or burned before you start the removal of your starter.
2. Used vice to hold the starter firmly.
3. Used a small punch to tap out the old roll pin or you can use a Arbor press if you have one.
4. Once roll pin comes out pull off old pinion gear and install the new gear like directions show.
5. Reinstall the roll pin the same way you took out the old one by using a small punch or press.
6. Rebolt the starter back to engine. Plug the wires back in and you should be ready to start it up.

remove starter , replace pinion assembly.

Disabled Battery
Removed all access cowlings
Removed Starter
Removed Starter gear, you need a hammer or a press, easier if you push out the gear from the short side
Reassemble starter assembly and install on Mower
Enable battery and test starter, short burst is all you need, verify it works and put on covers.
Drive out pin is the hard part and putting the new on in as well

1. Removed hood, front grill and supports.
2. Removed all wires, the choke and throttle cables.
3. Pulled the engine out, the starter was on the bottom and side next to the frame.
4. Pulled the sheet metal off the back and the side of the engion so I could remove the starter.
5. Put the new drive gear assembly on and put every thing back together.

Remove battery cable, remove starter, take worn-out gear off starter shafts replace it with new gear, install starter and battery cables.

Removed the starter from the engine
Ordered the replacement starter set
Removed the old parts from the starter
Installed the new parts on the starter
Replaced the starter on the engine
Test started tractor- successful

I thought the float valve was not working, even after a complete carb rebuild. Pulled the head to check for burnt or stuck valves, significant carbon build up, but valves still closed correctly. Had weak spark, but it was there, so I replaced the coil, it did not run at all after that, so I pulled the kill wire from the magneto, the machine started, the carburetor adjustments were effective, better than before. Found a safety module that checks seat interlock, gear interlock, and deck engagement before you are allowed to start the machine. This module 68-2940 part number on a Toro 55600 series tractor kills the engine by grounding the ignition magneto coil.
So, I replaced the head gasket after cleaning the head and valves, put a float valve in the carb, by the way the little green ring goes in with a raised lip on the bowl side of the valve, replaced the coil and will install a new ignition switch and module coil when it comes in.