Bottom Tray Rail Assembly 97783

The old rails were made of carbon steel. The new rails are made of aluminum. The pre-drilled holes and supplied screws were a perfect fit. The most difficult part was removing the old screws. One was removed with a nut driver the others were gripped with channel locks and removed. I sprayed krol penetrating oil on the screws and allowed it to soak for about 30 minutes. I suspect a longer soak time (overnight) may have loosed the rust making it easier to remove these screws. Prior to installing the new screws, I applied never seize to them. This should eliminate the corrosion issue should they need to be replaced in the future.

Sprayed screws with WD40 & let it sit for a week. The rails & screws were rusted in place so bad I had to use vice grips to get them out. When I finally got a grip on the screws I worked them back and forth with the vice grips and they finally loosened up enough to back them out. This grill is 20 years old so I expected to spend more time to repair it. Weber makes a tough well built grill. The aluminum bottom tray rails & screws fit perfectly. Thanks Replacementparts.com !!!

Soaked the rusted screws with WD-40 a few times, then I was able to remove them. Once I had the rails removed, I cleaned up all around the area. Then simply installed the new ones.

Simply squirted some W-D 40 on the original screws that held the rails in place. Used a small socket to break them free and backed them out. Replaced the rails with what I ordered and rehung the tray. Done deal!

Replacement rails were a bit lighter grade than the original, Excellent price, very nice young customer service gal and prompt delivery! Perfect! :-)

Bought this Weber Genesis 1000 new in the Spring of 1996. Once a year I disassemble, clean and repair/replace parts that have gone bad. This has included the igniter, flavorizer bars, grill cooking surface, opening handle and (three times) all wood parts on flat table surfaces. (Finally resorted to Trex decking lumber to eliminate staining and rot; cut material to size on table saw.) When the rails for the bottom tray gave out, I thought my Weber might finally need replacement. But no, new tray rails from eReplacementParts solved the problem in less than 15 minutes. Remove four hex-head screws and the remaining parts of the old rails, insert new rails with enclosed four new screws. Done. After a good cleaning, some repainting and a coat of wax for the hood, my Weber looks like new...and works that way too. Twenty years down, hopefully 20 more to go,

After soaking the bolts with penetrating oil for a week and applying heat I was unsuccessful extracting the bolts. I used a dremel and cut the heads off, I used a center punch to stake the middle of the bolts, I drilled a pilot hole using a 1/8” drill bit all the way through the firebox and followed up drilling with a 1/4” bit. I drilled the new rails with the 1/4” bit because they were slightly smaller holes and bolted the rails on with SS 1.5” long bolts, nuts and washers. Everything worked perfectly!
Note: use quality drill bits
Note: drilling all the way through the firebox does not cause any interference problems

Used vice-grip pliers to loosen 26 year old screws. Put a little high temperature oil on new screws, placed new rail(s) over holes, started screws with a screwdriver and tightened with socket.

1. Removed 4 screws holding the two old (20 years old) rails
2. Installed new rails with 4 new (supplied) screws.

1) Sprayed in the old nuts with penetrating oil and let set for a day.
2) Removed the bottom tray and then used the visegrips to grab hold of an old set screw. Then rotated to remove the screw.
3) After all set screws were removed, put a little anti-seize compound on the new set screws. Started the new screws with a nut driver.
4) Finished. The rails were a perfect fit for the Weber Genesis 1000 purchased in the mid 1990's. Yep, figure I have another 5 years on the grill before I breakdown for a new one.

Removed old rail and screws and installed new rail.