what are the torque specs. and sequence

Is there a replacement air tank for model cplc7060v type 1? How much would it cost and how much for freight to 29709?

Are the valves & restricter plate
included?

Does this come with the sleeve?

I have a CPLC7060V-1 upright compressir which just froze because of low oil. I didn;t notice that a seal had work off and leaked oil. The deleima because I can get the crankshaft but the connecting rod is discontiued. I called the dealed and in ereplacement and it's not available. If someone has the compressor pump where someone is upgrading or getting a larger one and would like to part with it, please let me know. Thanks

Similar to another problem that I saw posted on your forum, I have a Porter Cable CPLC7060V TYPE 1 (I believe) and when there is pressure in the tank, when the air pressure hits the cut-in set point. The motor attempts to restart but kicks out the 220 breaker. When I drain the air from the tank down to nothing, and reset everything, the compressor starts up and produces air and reaches the cut-out set point and shuts down properly. But as I use air, when it reaches the cut-in set point, the same thing happens again. I did replace, as you instructed someone else, the check valve (A19175) but nothing changed. Same thing still happens. Do you have any other input as to what could be causing this and an idea on how to go about checking/verifying whatever that suggestion may be? Any input you may have will be helpful!

I have a Porter cable air compressor model- CPLC7060V type-2. It has developed a condition of a slow running. While running slower than normal it appears to almost have a variable speed. It does not sound like a binding condition but possibly the motor can not obtain full rpm. Any ideas?

I Just bought a cplc7060v1 and need to change the power cord to fit existing plug that the dryer uses. What are my options?

I have a cplc7060v compressor. I have replaced the check valve. The compressor runs until it gets to 40 psi and then the pump bogs down and stops running. The motor is still running, but the pump is not. I disconnected the tube from the check valve. The check valve is not leaking back. I then started the motor with the check valve disconnected and the pump works. Then I pushed the check valve tube back onto the pump and it slows down and stops. When it pull the check valve tub back off it starts again. Can you help?

I have the cplc7060v and the crank broke. What would be the best way to repair this? Can I get a new crank and install it or do I need to get a new compressor? What is the torque on bolts and the part number for the crank? Thanks.

I was wondering if you had the torque specs for a CPLC7060 V-1 rod caps? We are rebuilding mine and can't seem to find it. Thanks in advance

What is the torque spec for the head bolts on a compressor?

How much oil should I use for the model CPLC7060V?

What should you set up the clearance between the crank shaft and rod bearing be on a rebuild job?

Thanks.

I have an air leak between the valve plate and head, the graphite gasket seems to be the problem, the manual requires the repair be made by a qualified tech. Not sure why, it seems to be a straight forward repair "remove screws, remove head, remove gasket replace gasket and reassemble". Am I missing something here? Is there a torque spec, is something spring loaded? and if I am replacing the one gasket should I be replacing other parts simply because of disassembly? Thanks in advance Roger

I have the CPLC7060V/ type "0", I believe...


I have had this unit for about 5 yrs. I use it for personal use in my garage, nothing major. I run a Coats tire machine with it and air tools.

I have noticed that I seem to be getting oil into the tank. Where should I look to remedy this situation? Also, as near as I can tell, the head gasket or valve gasket is blown; I get a lot of air coming out from that area when it is running

I have a model CPLC7060V (I believe Type 1) 60 gallon, 135 psi compressor. When the air tank is completely empty, the unit starts up properly and builds air pressure until it reaches the factory-set cut-out point. When I begin using the air and the pressure drops to the point of the cut-in setpoint, the unit attempts to restart but the motor apparently overloads and kicks out the 220V breaker. If I drain the tank completely once again of all air, reset the breaker and turn the unit back on, it will restart and run normally once again but again, when I'm using the air it won't restart but just kicks out the breaker. I installed a new check valve (part A19715) but nothing changed....same problem. Does anyone know if there are other things that can cause this same problem?

i have a porter cable air compressor model number cplc7060v i am replacing the head gasket and i believe the head plate gasket i need to know what the torque spec are for the head bolts , bottom pan bolts , and the connecting rod bolts i cannot find this info anywhere and would appreciate the help thanks

I have a Porter Cable Single-Stage vertical 60 gal. compressor, model # CPLC7060V-1. I use in my artist canvas manufacturing biz. Over the last two weeks I have been smelling a burnt or hot oil smell when it runs. Today the compressor was smoking when it was pumping. When I put my hand on top of the compressor at the air filter, the whole top of the head was covered with oil.
I removed the compressor pump from the tank and took it to my bench. I removed the filter cover and found the intake ports covered in oil. I pulled the head off the pump and inspected the pistons and cylinder walls. All looked good. I removed the oil pan off the crankcase and checked out the crank, rods and lower cylinder walls. Again, everything looks great. I noticed a small black nylon looking mass inside one of the pistons. After getting out the parts manual, I see these are (2 of them) filters for the crankcase vents.
Is it posibel with one of these filters out, oil was being thrown up the vent and on to the air intake ports and intake filter? I would appreaciate input from anyone who knows before I replace the compressor pump.

i have a porter cable cplc7060v-1 compressor and i am replacing head gasket, valve flappers and valve plate gasket. the valve plate assembly has small pits and the top of the pistons have these small pits too. is there a way to clean these up or just leave them the way they are? please help. Thanks

Hi,I have a porter cable mod.cplc7060v-1.The problem is the motor won't start if there is any air in the tank,it tries but then it kicks the reset.I think it might be one or both of the capcitors on the motor.Is this where I should start.
thanks

I purchased this used right before Christmas 07 and just hooked it up this weekend. I have about a 40 ft run from my main service panel to a sub panel using a no. 6 wire that I run my welder, from there I added a box with 2 - 20 amp breakers and ran a no. 12 wire about another 45 ft to a 20 amp recepticle and from the recepticle I used the existing plug off the compresser motor, looks to be a no. 14 wire.
Here is my probe, the air compresse starts up and run fine until it get to about 20 psi and it starts bogging down and the after about 1 minute the over load kicks out.

Any ideas?

I have been running this compressor for several years now, not sure how many actually but maybe as many as 6 or 7.I should have gotten a bigger one from the start because this one was at the minimum CFM that I needed. So it has been run fairly hard for a weekend hobby user. I have used it to sand blast parts, run sanders, grinders, cut off tools, die grinders, etc. I cant tell you how many hours it has but it allot IMO. The only problem I have had with it was one check valve and now the outlet tube #33 broke off at the check valve. I expect to get many more hours out of this compressor.

compressor is actuall a DeVilbiss. The name and model are spray painted over by Porter Cable.THe castings were made poorly and the compressor failed at an early age.The pump is listed as"obsolete." in parts catalog.