Hi rambone,
The ring is teflon and the cylinder is chrome plated.It needs no lube or oil.Anything like that will attract dust and act as a lapping compound causing premature wear of the piston and cylinder.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi H75jross,
What you need is Drain Valve Part Number: A17038.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hey dbilleaudeau, It seems that Porter Cable has a problem with this year(2010) model. I received one for christmas 2010 and I'm having the exact same problem with mine. Unfortunately the repair places where I live will not touch my compressor without a receipt so I am dead in the water. I hope someone responds with some good news.

Hello dbilleaudeau,

Porter Cable does have a 3 year limited warranty from date of purchase. Contact either a PC factory Service Center or an Authorized Service Center, hopefully you still have a receipt.


Hello ParaBellum,

You might try to contact the Porter Sales rep. in your area, and explain your situation maybe he can take care of your problem.

Good luck
-WJA

Has anyone found a check valve without buying the manifold? I've only used my compressor for the thrid time and can't find the receipt. HELP!!!

Hello jrobinsonco,

If you are having problems with your Porter-Cable compressor and if it is within the warranty period. Take it to the nearest Porter-Cable authorized service center for service. To find one in your area just Google " Porter Cable Service".

Hope that helps,
WJA

o so easy,,just find a service center and drop it off. diesal is around &4.00 a gallon and my time is $82.00 pur hour im still looking at a loss. thanks. i chose to buy porter-cable becouse out of the gate its a better tool,,i do also have other porter-cable equiptment. at this point i have fixed it myself. the PLASTIC dimple came unglued off the plastic adjuster washer. a little super-glue and some pro-poxy to make shure the plastic stays together this time. but its not a warm fuzzy feeling to see someone like porter-cable using a low end part like this,,, once again from what im reading just maybe you all should think about who your buying this plastic from and have them make a better one. this is not like you guys.!!!
JR

Your best course of action is probably to bring your complaint to Porter Cable themselves.

Either way, I'm just glad you got your compressor working. We do our best to help you find the best repair solution for your situation, but we're ill-equipped to tell Porter Cable how to build their compressors.

If you put your ZIP Code in on Porter Cable's website, you'll get an address and contact info for the nearest Service Center. You can find their site here:

link removed Machinery|Porter-Cable

Let 'em have it.

I WENT TO MY COMPRESSOR TODAY AND THE SAME THING HAPPENED. HOW DO YOU FIX IT???

Mine has the same issue. I have tinkered for a few hours and located the problem. If you unscrew the regulator completely and remove the spring you will see a metal nipple on the inside. Around that is a plastic ring. The best I gather the way the regulator is supposed to work is it compresses the nipple the more you turn it. Now if it is airtight inside the regulator you get compressed air from your tank.

I found this out by removing the regulator and then placing my thump over the metal nipple in there and pressing in. You will feel air begin to flow past your thumb. The air will move the plastic ring forward and in turn seal against your thumb. All the sudden you will feel a lot of pressure when you try to push inward. You will also notice your outlet gauge increase as you try to push the plastic ring back over the nipple (b/c you have made a seal and your pushing pressure toward the outlet side- which is what a good regulator does).

Unfortunately, it appears you have to spend $70 for a new manifold to fix the issue. I am going to go to Home Depot unscrew the regulator for the pump on display to see if there is a rubber grommet or something I am missing. If not I am going to buy one that fits around that nipple so that when the pointed plastic part on the regulator cap (look inside you'll see it) begins to press the metal nipple in, it will seal like its supposed to and divert the air to my outlet gauge.

I'll let you know what happens.

I've got the same problem too--I'm looking for an answer also---I've got a porter cable 150 psi-6 gallon---haven't had it long

I just got mine fixed for the same problem--the tube seal split due to excessive wear.

Hi James,

If the compressor runs, builds pressure and then continues to run past the normal shutoff point then the problem is the pressure switch. The pressure switch is part #N003307.

If the compressor runs but doesn't build pressure or builds to a pressure lower than the pressure switch cutoff point and won't build anymore then the piston and cylinder are worn out. The piston & cylinder are sold as a kit which is part #KK-4964.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Jim,

I think the problem is the tank check valve. If the valve doesn't seal off air will bleed back to the cylinder. There is a small vent hole in the cylinder head to bleed off the air escaping from the check valve. A new check valve should solve the problem. The check valve is part #D27022 and it is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

It sounds like a stuck check valve.

Hi boof,

That is part of the manifold assembly. Porter Cable does not provide any individual parts for the manifold. It will need to be replaced as one unit. The manifold is part #N003001 and it is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Randy,

Assuming that the regulator is properly set then I would guess that the problem is with the regulator on the manifold. Porter Cable does not offer the regulator parts separate from the manifold assembly. You will need to order the manifold. The manifold is part # N003001 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

I experienced the same problem, used the compressor 4 times and no air pressure registering on the gauge and no air for the tool side. The manifold appears to cost more than 1/2 the price of the compressor

I had the same issue and identified it as being the regulator. Of course, the part is not sold separate from the manifold ($70). I attempted to make a good seal inside the regulator by using a couple different rubber washers. I had limited success with one that gave me only about 50 psi out of the tool side. Needless to say, the fix wasn't enough.

Good-bye porter cable. Hello Dewalt (I should have started with this). Instead of being out $350 for the Dewalt, I am out $529 since I wasted $179 on a Porter Cable.

Hi James,

That style of fastener is called a "Security Torx". You should be able to find a driver from a specialty tool supplier. I know that Snap-On sells them and I would assume that Matco or Mac would also. You could also try a Sears store, they might have them.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

I have the same problem but 90 PSI talked with compressor repair company local and they say it's the sleeve and ring and estimated parts price $100.00 not including labor. It's just a bad design mechanically.

The same thing happened to mine, I have yet to find a replacement part. I haven't even used it yet.

same here

Used it once and now am stuck. I certainly wouldn't purchase a new manifold just to have it do it again. Gotta be a place to get this somewhere.

I have this same problem. I let someone borrow the compressor and they must have removed the pressure adjustment knob and lost part of the mechanism. All I have is the knob, the spring and a small nipple that goes inside - - not sure what is missing but know that something is. Anyone found a solution yet?

Same problem. I purchased the C2002 with accessories last year. Never used it. Took it out of the box last month, went thru its "break-in" steps. Tank pressured up fine but no air came thru various nozzles. Turned regulator knob and it came off the threaded male housing. Only parts inside were a spring, short black molded ferrule and an O ring. I didn't see any other parts to enable release of air to the outlets. Replacement manifolds run $69 to $120 plus shipping and additional labor. Seems very unfair.

I have the same problem and it looks like the manifold needs to be replaced unless there is a fix on it but the replacement is as much as the compressor itself is new well a few bucks cheaper absolutely ridiculous I think

The same problem. The manual adjustment valve requires that a small plastic part that is held down with a heavy spring inside seems to be broken. All that is required is that plastic part. Why can't we just get those internal parts required? This unit is less than one year old and has only gone thru the original box of nails that it came with. (Disappointed)

I have the same problem.
Used it a couple of times, then it just would not build up any pressure at all.
Porter Cable replaced the regulator and it worked fine a couple more times.
I haven't used it in a couple of months, just turned it on and guess what.....SAME PROBLEM--it will not build up pressure.
THIS IS THE LAST PORTER CABLE PRODUCT I WILL EVER BUY.
Taking it to the dump, not worth paying another $68 for a new regulator.

So I have the same issue with the plastic plug that presses on the check valve in the regulator. Since the regulator is part of the manifold, we have to buy a new one. Has anyone added another new regulator assembly third party to the unregulated side?

Get a manifold for a c2005; it costs about 16 bucks.

I've got the same problem too. For the cost of the manifold regulator from PC, I may just put another quality regulator in place and not have the fancy cover. Lousy cheap part.

I have about 5 pancake porter cable compressors with the same problem...they will no longer pump up and hold air. What is it?

Hi Mark,

The problem is the Check Valve. The check valve is not sealing off completely so air is leaking back to the cylinder. There is a vent to allow the air to escape out of the cylinder. A new Check Valve should solve the problem. The Check Valve is part #D27022 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Mark,

If there is zero pressure check the drain valve and make sure it is closed. Check all of the tubing and hoses for leaks. If there is still no pressure or low pressure then it is most likely that the cylinder and piston are worn out and will need to be replaced. The Connecting Rod Kit, part #KK-4964, will replace the cylinder and piston.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Nelson,

The inability of the compressor to build pressure is caused by wear to both the piston and the cylinder. To make the repair you will need the Connecting Rod Kit, part #KK-4964. the kit includes the piston, connecting rod, and cylinder wall.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Bobby I have basically the same and was given some advice to look at the check valve going into the tank...Mine appears to be stuck so I'm going to replace it. That small hole is apparently for relieving the pressure off the compressor cylinder after it stops running... The check valve is supposed to prevent all of the air in the tank from also escaping into that hole. My first thought when I saw the small hole was it must be a casting imperfection.... Geeesh

There is a small orange O ring type thing that is on the aluminum tube going into the head. It has a slot that the ring slides into on the tube and the top locks into the head and valve plate. Its a fairly easy fix. You will need a Torx screwdriver to open up the motor housing. Its a #25 size Torx screw. Take the head off the piston (4 hex screws) and you will see the O ring. The O ring was leaking for some time on mine because it kept on turning on even when not being used. Today it blew out and it wouldn't build any pressure. The O-ring costs $1.76. Cheap fix. Look at that first before you spend a fortune on other parts. Good Luck

Mine has done this in extremely cold weather in Wisconsin. I believe something is freezing up because as soon as I take it inside to warm up it worked fine good Luck

yes the drain valves can be replaced. usually a wrench will do it. sometimes they get really stuck and strip.

Hi grtpumpkin,

It sounds as if the problem is a worn out piston and cylinder. I think this was a case of not enough compressor for the work being done. The C2002 has a CFM output of 2.6 CFM @ 90psi. I assume from your post about the bolt that you where using an impact wrench. A typical impact wrench requires between 4 and 5 CFM to operate properly. I think that is why the bolt didn't want to budge. The C2002 compressor has a tank that holds 6 gallons of air. Using a tool that requires 5 CFM with a 6 gallon tank will cause the compressor to turn on after about 15 seconds of use and then run continuously until the tool is shut off.

All air compressors have what is called a Duty Cycle Rating. Sometimes the manufacture publishes the rating sometimes not. What the duty cycle rating tells us is the amount of time the compressor may be running during a given job. For example, if you have a compressor with a Duty Cycle Rating of 50% and your job is going to take you one hour, the compressor can not run for more that 30 minutes of that hour. This does not mean that you can allow the motor to run for 30 continuous minutes during that hour. The 30 minutes of running must be spread out evenly during the 60 minutes that the job takes to complete. A small, oil less compressor like yours probably has a Duty Cycle Rating of about 35% to 45%. A compressor that is lubricated by oil will usually have a higher Duty Cycle Rating, approximately 50 to 60%. Large industrial compressors, usually with 80 gallon or bigger tanks will quite often have continuous Duty Cycle Ratings. Knowing a bit about Duty Cycle Ratings can help you to select the proper size and quality compressor for the type of work you want to do. To operate an impact wrench I would consider a compressor with an oil lubricated pump and a tank that is about 25 gallons or larger.

To repair your compressor you will need a piston and cylinder kit. The kit is part #KK-4964 and is available from ereplacementparts.com

I hope this helps!

-UtahAV
-Mark

Hey danny1,
You will need to remove the piston/rod first..[place a large punch or screwdriver between the open slots of the bottom pulley braced against the housing..remove the screw holding the bottom of the piston] the piston should move out of the way enough to start removing the belt off the bottom pulley..[a flat blade screwdriver should suffice.].to install the new one..start with the small pulley first and then feed or push the belt on the bottom one..reattach the bottom of the piston and reassemble..:)
hope this is helpful...
cmoorejack

Hey c.w180,
Once you have removed item #13 screw from the case [there may be 2 of them..1 on each side] and slid the whole pump assy off the tank..[you may have to unhook the electrical also] you remove the screws from the housing and separate..then you will have access to the piston/pump/motor assy..4 screws on the top plate..[check item #104 tube seal for wear or breakage ] you may have a worn out piston/seal assy..a worn out or broken valve plate or just that darn tube seal letting air leak out while its try to pump up..:)
parts and breakdown avail at ereplacementparts.com..
[caution..this repair is not for the faint of link removed women..or left-handed people..]:D
hope this helps..?
cmoorejack