has same problem, had to replace regulator

Well, I'm answering my own question. The screw is NOT reverse threaded. Just very, very tight. Place fly-wheel in vise and use a bigger wrench. Then pray.

Hi Kevin,

If the compressor builds to normal shut off pressure but then will not turn off then you will need to replace the pressure switch. The pressure switch is preset to turn off the motor at a specific pressure. The pressure switch is part #A10375 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Don,

I assume that your compressor runs but will not build enough pressure to signal the pressure switch to shut off. For example it builds to maybe 60lbs but won't build any higher. If this is the case your piston and cylinder have worn out. There is a kit available to make the repair. It is part # KK-4964 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Ed,

We do not offer any accessories that would help you attach your compressor to your sprinkler system.

I am concerned that your compressor will not be big enough to blow out your sprinklers without damaging the compressor. All air compressors have what is called a Duty Cycle Rating. Sometimes the manufacture publishes the rating sometimes not. What the duty cycle rating tells us is the amount of time the compressor may be running during a given job. For example, if you have a compressor with a Duty Cycle Rating of 50% and your job is going to take you one hour, the compressor can not run for more that 30 minutes of that hour. This does not mean that you can allow the motor to run for 30 continuous minutes during that hour. The 30 minutes of running must be spread out evenly during the 60 minutes that the job takes to complete. A small, oil less compressor like yours probably has a Duty Cycle Rating of about 35% to 45%. A compressor that is lubricated by oil will usually have a higher Duty Cycle Rating. Large industrial compressors, usually with 80 gallon or bigger tanks will quite often have continuous Duty Cycle Ratings. Knowing a bit about Duty Cycle Ratings can help you to select the proper size and quality compressor for the type of work you want to do.

Your compressor will run continuously while it is attached to your sprinklers. If the compressor survives the task it will certainly reduce the life of your compressor. An oil lubricated compressor with at least a 25 gallon tank would probably do the job if your where very careful with it and allowed the compressor to cool periodically. Landscape contractors use rotary compressors capable of running continuously without risk of damage. You might even want to contact a landscaper in your area. The labor to blow out your sprinkler system would certainly be less than the price of a new compressor.

I hope this helps!

-Mark

I made an adapter that screws into a threaded inlet I installed inside the house. It threaded into the water line and had a male quick connect coupler that the air hose snaps onto. (I also made one that can screw onto an outside faucet and has a male air hose coupler) I generally rent a larger compressor to ensure that the water is blown out completely. (The air leaking out of the first head is going to reduce the amount of air for the rest of the run.....) good luck!! Jim

Hi Ed,

The cylinder and piston have worn out on your compressor. They are available in a rebuild kit. The kit is part #KK-4964 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Travis, the yellow wire runs from the pressure switch to the leg that you see on the top of the motor after installing it. The white wire plugs in to the leg on bottom of the motor. The black wire attaches to the shutoff switch and green, which is ground, screws to the frame.

I have the same problem. I suspect it is the check valve, part #8 on diagram page A.

Try looking at the Tube seal part # 104 mine has blown 2 times. They don't seem to take the heat of the pump running for long periods and deteriorate then blow out causing an air leak as you describe. In fact I am ordering 1 right now because mine blew again.

check valve:cool:

Hi mes,

It sounds like something on the motor / pump assembly has broken. I would guess a bearing, bushing or retainer has failed. The manufacture does not offer individual parts for the motor / pump assembly. Replacing the motor and pump would cost almost double the price of a new compressor. I think your best bet is to replace the tool.

Sorry about the bad luck. Keep us posted of the outcome.

-UtahAV
-Mark

Hey fredderf,
Is it shut off too tight..? Not much you can do on this..if it wont come loose..you will have to replace..dang it..:(
part # A12330
avail at eReplacementparts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair
cmoorejack

Hey cdavidl,
ugh..clanking and a burnt smell is never a good sign..but once you open the housing your problem should present itself..possible bad piston/rod assy..burning smell could be from the drag on the motor or a more serious prob with the winding..any combination of problems sometimes makes the repair not economical..
hope this helps?:)
Craig

Thanks. When I tear into it I'll let you know what I found. I appreciate your assistance.

Is the compressor stopping when it reaches 80 PSI or is it just continuously running and won't go past 80? If it's continuously running you might want to look at getting a new piston and ring kit to improve compression. After a while those oil-free compressors will need to have new rings installed. You also may have an air leak.

I have recently replaced the tube seal and the compressor is running but will not shut on auto
Any suggestions?

Bump

Hey blaster,
You do have to pull the head to replace the seal..that part isn't so bad.. it is the taking apart of the housing as it is a clam shell style and is difficult to reassemble because everything has to go back together correctly..a fun project if you are comfortable doing something like that..if not..one for the repair center...
hope this helps:)
Craig

Thanks Craig;
I have had it apart, and like you said its got to go back right and ever thing fits tight. Does the tube need to be in tube seal when tighten down ? I have ordered the gasket kit.

Thanks again H.B.

Yup..just make sure everything is in alignment when reassembled and tightened...:)
Craig

Installed new tube seal and gaskets, works like new!!! Would like to thank craig for the help, you the MAN.

Thanks H.B.

THANKS H.B.
and thanks to EREPLACEMENTPARTS.COM for providing this great forum..:D
Happy Holidays..!
Craig

Hey enventr,
Actually that hole is a dead end..[not sure link removed it is the tube seal that is the link removed or the valve plate assy..upon further inspection you should be able to determine the problem..[and the solution]:)
Porter Cable C2001-WK Type 0 A 1.5HP 6G PC UM 1STG 120 Compressor Parts : eReplacementParts.com
Hope this helps...
cmoorejack

Since parts are becoming somewhat hard to get for the Porter cable compressors.

Would like to know if there are any compatable regulators to replace the C 2002 type 3 ,6 gallon manifold?

I do not need the entire manifold all I really need is the (small valve ) that controls the air pressure by turning the regulator. Round valve with rubber seal and tip that are one piece that are now broken?

This particular part is not available through the company with out purchasing the entire manifold!
THX in advance
JM

Hey Lindsey,
The pump assy motor has an overload hard wired in..[not a replaceable part] some have an auto fuse attached [replaceable at auto parts store] you may also have poor brush contact and or a switch with a bad connection or its just going bad..:
hope this is helpful..
cmoorejack