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  5140011-81 Motor Housing

Motor Housing 5140011-81

OEM part for: DeWALT

Part Number: 5140011-81


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Grid squares measure 1x1 inch
$42.05
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Hard 1-2 hours (1 rated repairs)?
OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer ?
DeWALT
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Product Description ?

  • Classification: Part
  • Weight: 0.90 lbs.
  • Shipping: Ships Worldwide

Frequently Purchased Together ?

Compatibility

This part will fit the following 2 machines

DeWALT

DW735 Type 1 13 inch Planer View Diagrams & Manuals
DW735X Type 1 13" Planer View Diagrams & Manuals
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This item works with the following types of products:

  • Planer Parts

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Hard 1-2 hours (1 rated repairs)?

Pulley-end bearing failed, and the resultant heat destroyed the motor housing

David - August 28, 2017
👍 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type

Planer

Difficulty

Hard

Time

1-2 hours

Tools Used

Screwdriver, Socket set, Wrench Set, Requires open-end wrenches, one of which must be customized

Removed motor from the planer, which requires removal of drive chains, cooling shroud and the drive pulley. Considerable disassembly of the planer body is required for access. The motor was opened and taken to a guy who rebuilds starters, generators, alternators, etc. and he replaced the bearings using a press. He didn't charge much for this, and probably most people will have trouble finding someone to replace the bearings for them. However, when the motor was reassembled it still didn't rotate, and at that point I discovered the housing had melted. So I had to disassemble it again, remove the windings, put it all back together. At this point I should have checked t see I had the directional right, but I didn't, so when I had it all back together discovered it was running backwards. *sigh*. Removed everything, reassembled it again, but one of the mounting screws was stripped out at this point so had to use a lag screw there. When installing the drive belt, you need to be able to R & R the cutter head, which requires grinding down an open end wrench to fit in there. Then to install the pulley requires a LOT of force, which I eventually discovered after an internet search. I assumed there was some trick to do it, but no, it just take about 50 foot-pounds on a breaker bar. But once that was done, it now runs, but it is developing more heat than seems right. There may have been some damage to the armature when the old housing melted. But the replacement part worked fine and was inexpensive--bizarrely, it was cheaper than a replacement drive belt! This is not a job for the faint of heart. I could do it much faster now that I've made all the mistakes. Unfortunately there isn't anything on YouTube to help you, and since I didn't video it, I can't post. Be advised that if you blow the pulley-end armature bearing you'll need the housing because it gets hot and destroys the housing. If the other bearing goes out you won't need to do all this because the cooling fan/shroud there keep the temperature under control, but the pulley-end bearing is the one under stress and most likely to fail. Suggest replacing these bearings preventive if you have to replace the drive belt or cutter head.
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Our customer service team are at the ready daily to answer your part and product questions. We have a dedicated staff with decades of collective experience in helping customers just like you purchase parts to repair their products.

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All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.

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