Hello KenCapie,

I have not come across away to test the 321-354 controller. You may want to take it to a electronics repair center in your area to see if they can test it.

-WJA

Hello frenchscout,

If the laser on your Hitachi C10FSH is not working. You will need to replace part number 329-863 Laser Marker. That should get you going again.

-WJA

Hello 1099676,

I would check your 998-839swtch first. But I'll bet ya dollars to donuts it is your 321-354 controller.

-WJA

Update: if the blade is spun (using the belt) while depressing the trigger switch, the motor will engage briefly with sparks flying from the brush area. I'm guessing that I may need new carbon brushes, but I'd like someone to validate that this is the cause of the motor not engaging from the off position. Any help will be appreciated!

Hi DougG,
No thats your speed controller that is bad.What you are seeing is the speed controller trying to apply the electronic brake.We get 4 or 5 of these saws per year.We tell or customers to be careful about how much money they put into this saw as more and more of the parts are obsolete.Hope that helps.good luck.
Tinker

Test

I have been told that the power supply overheats badly on all the Hitachi saws with lasers. The 10fch, ch2,c1ofsh, etc. I have been told to turn the laser off whenever it is not in use, especially in hot climates. I believe the power supply for the laser goes by the misleading name of switching power supply. It is the only part name on the laser saws that is not on the others. I am about to change out several on the saws my company owns and I can let you know if it works.

Hi Don,

You are going to need to trace the wiring of the laser and try to isolate the bad component. I don't have a wiring diagram to look at so I am going make a few assumptions. From what I can tell, the 120V power comes into the saw and to the 120V controller, item #151 on page C on the parts diagram. From there the power is split to the various electrical components. I can't tell if there is a transformer on the 120V controller or if the power is converted to DC power at the Switching Power Supply, item #144 on page C. The name would suggest the latter. Test the voltage through the 120V controller and through the Switching Power Supply. If both of these components test OK then the problem has to be with the Laser itself, item #99 on page B.

The 120 V controller is part #321-354, the Switching Power Supply is part #321-378 and the Laser is part #321-348. All of these parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Tracy,

The blocked Laser was a flaw with the C10FSH saws. Nothing is out of adjustment it is just how the saw was designed. When the cutterhead is lowered the dust chute blocks the laser beam. I would guess that it was done intentionally to help protect the laser's lens from damage by scrapes kicking back.

Thanks!

-Mark

Hi Mike,

I would start by looking at the brushes. If they are not making good contact with the commutator on the armature they can cause the brake to not work. It could also be a problem with the switch. Most miter saw switches control the brake. The brush set is part #999-043 and the switch is part #998-839. Both are available from http://ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Bob,

The bad vibration and slow speed would make me suspect that the armature has shorted out. You will also need to inspect the field for signs of damage as many times a bad armature will also cause the field to go bad. The brushes will need to be replaced as well.

The armature is part #360-588U, the field is part #340-539D and the brushes are part #999-043. All of these parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Here's an idea. Would anyone owning this make and model of saw be willing to remove the cover on the control module side of the tool and post a picture or two? That's the area I am most concerned with. I don't want to fry the module by hooking up something backwards.
Thanks, BD2

Can anyone at least point me in the right direction? I need my saw for work and I can neither afford a new one nor am I able to pay for someone to fix it at this time. I would appreciate any help.Thanks, BD2.

I have a wiring diagram for a c10fsh if you still need it.

[QUOTE=Diya;66911]I have a wiring diagram for a c10fsh if you still need it."

Any way you could provide that wiring diagram? I have a similar problem--saw has been apart for years because I can't figure out how to re-wire the controller. I would really appreciate it.

[QUOTE=sodNicholls;67514]Any way you could provide that wiring diagram? I have a similar problem--saw has been apart for years because I can't figure out how to re-wire the controller. I would really appreciate it."

please send me the wiring diagram for the saw

Hello falconwillie,

The manufacture used to have the wiring diagrams in the parts breakdowns all the time. But for some reason the have stopped providing them. Your best line of action is to contact Hitachi tech service and ask them to send you one.

-WJA

it could also be brushs or a field

the hook of the spring go point to the blade side, and the full spring go to the motor side

You need to remove the set screw's on the end of the motor housing. # 182 on page Three. This is what holds the brush holder in place. Hope this helps.

Hitachi C10FSH Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com

Didn't help me. I had already removed the set screws. Are the brush holders glued in with LocTite or something?

So, here's what I found out about changing the brushes in my C10FSH Sliding Miter Saw: If the brushes don't easily slide out of the brush holder because for some reason they are fused to the sides of the holder, you have to remove the brush holders and the brushes simultaneously. First, remove the set screws that hold the holder. If the holder doesn't easily slide out it is in all likelihood glued in. To break the gluing take a very large bladed screwdriver (you may need a wrench to turn it), insert it in the throat of the brush holder and turn counter clockwise. At the same time insert a punch or very skinny screwdriver into the motor vent grill between the comutator and the brush holder and pull, turning the very big bladed screwdriver and pulling simultaneously. If the brushes are fused to the inside of the holder you will have to punch them out.