Graphite Gasket Kit D30139

When the motor stopped I could hear air leaking from somewhere inside the motor/compressor unit. I removed the screws holding the motor housing together and exposed the compressor. Air was leaking from a pinhole in the compressor cylinder head! I bled off the remaining air in the tank and filled the pinhole with epoxy. I assumed this was a defect in the casting. Wrong! The compressor stopped leaking air but now it was making weird noises. The hole is there to bleed off the air between the cylinder and the tank once the motor stops. The problem was a failed check valve. Air flows from the cylinder to the tank when the compressor is on. When the compressor stops, the check valve prevents the air from escaping from the tank back into the cylinder. Once you understand how the thing works fixing it is easy! Bought a new check valve from eReplacementParts. Took 2 minutes to remove the old one and install the new one. Replaced the cylinder head I ruined. While I had it apart I also replaced the valve plate. Works perfectly! The Porter Cable service center said to buy a new compressor! Fixing mine was so much more satisfying. eReplacementParts had what I needed.

Took apart case turned head to face me and took head apart four bolts. Took head off and air plate scraped and cleaned then put in new gaskets replaced bolts reassemble case and turned on it built pressure back to 150 psi. Note make sure you look at air plate and mark which way it is put, in can be put in backwards .

The problem was a blown o-ring on the compresser head replaced o-ring and new head gasket. Now pumps to 150 psi, and holds air pressure.

This repair covers a blown head gasket on a Porter Cable pancake compressor.

While using the machine, it started making a strange noise and refused to develop pressure.

Using a socket drive I disconnected the high pressure hose exiting the motor/pump cover going to the one way check valve mounted on the tank.

Using a Philips head screwdriver, I removed the two screws holding the housing in place near the tank brackets.

Using a torx driver I removed the screws holding the two motor/pump cases together, pushed the assembly forward from the mounting brackets and then separated the plastic cases.
There are rubber mounting feet placed at various locations keeping the pump and motor mounted to the plastic cases. Be certain to retain all of these square feet. If one or more are lost, they are available at this site as a separate part number.

Once again, using a nut driver, I removed the pump head (four screws) and separated the gaskets, valve assembly and O-ring. This is when I discovered the missing piece of head gasket. As the parts were so inexpensive, I ordered everything except the head casting itself.
The gasket kit I received had a replacement gasket to go with the new valve assembly that no longer used the O-ring. The gasket kit contained an O-ring had I used the old valve assembly.
Installing the head required using a cross-tightening pattern for installing the head bolts. As I had no specifics regarding the actual torque suggested for the head bolts, I tightened them to a level I thought appropriate without stripping the cylinder threaded holes.

Re-assembly was a reversal of the process listed above.

Silly me! Had I known the repair was going to be successful, I would have ordered motor brushes as they are worn more than half way and are only another $20. Now I need to order additional parts and separate the motor/pump casing halves again in order to replace the brushes.

KL

Took the two screws out that hold the engine on the tank. Loosen the tube that connects to the tank. Slide the engine off the tank. Remove the three torx screws from the plastic cover and remove one side of the cover. Pull engine out of the other side of the cover. Remove the four screws from the head. Take head off with the gasket and o ring. Clean off the old gasket from the head and replace one along with new o ring and replace the new seal on the copper tube. Reverse the procedure putting back together

Took the head off and replaced the gasket, easy!

Replacement of check valve plate an gaskets

Replaced the head plate and gaskets with the pressure switch. Very easy and eliminated the air leak. May not have needed the head plate and gasket but were replaced out of maintenance. Compressor works as new.

Remove the shroud
Remove the cylinder head
Remove the gaskets and valve plate
Clean the gasket areas
Install the new gaskets and valve plate
Attach the cylinder head

I had trouble getting the head off the compressor and putting it back on, solely because I didn't know there were two big headed screws down at the bottom that stopped the head from sliding off and on. Otherwise, the compressor pumped up after repair so that it was usable.