Hole saw mandrels are the intermediate pieces of hole saw drill bit assemblies that connect hole saws to drill chucks.

If you're looking to find a mandrel that matches your hole saws or power drill, the information below is everything you need to know to get the right mandrel.

Understanding the parts of hole saw mandrels, the various compatibility measurements available on the market, and how those measurements relate to your tool and hole saw can make you an expert shopper.

Hole Saw Mandrel Buying Guide Chart

Hole Saw Mandrel Construction

Directly from the drill chuck, a hole saw mandrel's arbor shaft (shank) extends to its collar. The base of the mandrel collar has a threaded collar screw protruding from its center that ends in a drill bit (most often a pilot bit, for starting the hole).

Hole saws are affixed to the base of the mandrel by passing the mandrel drill bit through a center hole in the hole saw. The hole saw is then screwed onto the mandrel collar base screw. Most hole saw mandrels (but not all) also have strategically positioned drive pins that match corresponding holes in the bases of hole saws, on the outside of their center holes. The pins help to stabilize the saw.

Major parts of a hole saw mandrel:

• arbor shaft (shank)- affixes to drill chuck.
  
• collar- the middle section of the mandrel.
  
• collar base- the part of the collar on which the hole saw attaches.
  
• collar screw- positioned at the center of the collar base.
  
• drill bit- protrudes from the collar screw.
• drive pins- attach to corresponding holes in hole saws.
  

Because a hole saw mandrel connects to both a drill's chuck at its arbor shaft end and the hole saw at the base of its collar, hole saw mandrels have two points of compatibility that shoppers must consider:

1. The arbor shaft size (diameter) and the drill chuck size must match.

2. The collar screw thread size and the hole saw thread size must match.

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Manufacturer Compatibility Systems

Many manufacturers of hole saws and their mandrels develop their own compatibility naming systems to simplify shopping. There's nothing wrong with using manufacturer compatibility systems if there's a certain brand name of mandrel and hole saw that you like, but it never hurts to know the specifics too.

Although these systems can be convenient and work very well when buying mandrels and hole saws from the same manufacturer, getting a replacement mandrel for your hole saw from the same manufacturer isn't always an option.

This is where knowing specific measurements and how they relate to compatibility comes in handy. In addition, many manufacturers use the actual measurements instead of a unique compatibility naming system.

In any case, it's best to understand the measurement specifics discussed below when shopping for hole saw mandrels.

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Match the Hole Saw Mandrel Shank to the Chuck

The first compatibility feature to match is the hole saw mandrel shank size (diameter) to the drill chuck size. Most hole saw mandrel arbors are designed to fit "jaw type" drill chucks, and the measurements in this section refer only to jaw type drill chucks.

Some hole saw mandrels are made for SDS chuck systems, in which case, the measurements here do not apply.

Chuck Sizes

Jaw type drill chucks come in three sizes:

• 1/4" (less common)
  
• 3/8"
• 1/2"
  

Increasing the size of a drill's chuck allows it to accept larger bits and adapters at its working end.

The chuck size partially reflects the power of the drill as well. For hole saws, drills with larger chucks can accept larger hole saws, and, generally, will be increasingly powerful to handle the workload of the larger saws.

Because of the way that jaw type chucks work (by closing around installed bits), larger chucks can also accept bits and adapters of smaller diameters. Drill chucks cannot accept bits and adapters with shanks larger than their chuck size.

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Hole Saw Arbor Shaft Diameter

Hole saw arbor shafts come in three diameter sizes:

• 1/4"
• 11/32"
• 7/16"

Because the 11/32" and 7/16" hole saw mandrel arbor shaft sizes are so close to their corresponding drill chuck sizes, 3/8" and 1/2" (as shown below), some manufacturers use the rounded figures to describe hole saw mandrels.

This means that some manufacturers will use 11/32" and 3/8" interchangeably when identifying mandrel specifications, even though the actual diameter is 11/32".

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Arbor Shaft to Chuck Size Compatibility

The three mandrel arbor diameter sizes correspond directly to the three drill chuck sizes.

The charts below show which drill chuck sizes can accept the three mandrel arbor shaft diameter sizes, and the reverse, which arbor diameter sizes can be accepted by the three drill chuck sizes.

   Mandrel Arbor Diameter                    Compatible Drill Chuck Size(s)

   1/4"   (arbor diameter)          →        1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" (chucks)

  11/32" (arbor diameter)        →        3/8", and 1/2" (chucks)

   7/16"  (arbor diameter)         →        1/2" (chucks only)

Drill Chuck Size                    Compatible Mandrel Arbor Diameter(s)             

1/4" (chuck)           →           1/4" (arbor diameters only)

3/8" (chuck)           →           1/4", and 11/32" (arbor diameters)

1/2" (chuck)           →           1/4", 11/32", and 7/16" (arbor diameters)

As chuck size decreases, a chuck's compatibility options for hole saw mandrel arbor shaft sizes decreases as well. Despite a chuck's ability to hold an arbor shaft of a smaller diameter, it's always best to match the arbor shaft size closer to the chuck size whenever possible.

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Shank Styles

Hole saw mandrel arbor shafts are available in four major styles:

• round
• flats
• hex
• SDS
  

Round, flats, and hex mandrel shanks are for jaw type chucks like those discussed above. The different designs offer different degrees of resistance to slippage  in the chuck. Reading specific manufacturer information about a mandrel's shank style is the best strategy when deciding between this feature.

Mandrels with SDS shanks are specifically for SDS systems, and are not compatible in any other type of chuck.

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Match the Hole Saw Mandrel Thread Size to the Hole Saw

This is the second compatibility item that must be matched when shopping for a hole saw mandrel.

Hole saws affix to mandrels by screwing onto a mandrel's threaded collar screw in the center of the collar base. This means that both the center hole of the hole saw and the mandrel's collar screw are threaded to specific sizes and must match exactly.

Luckily, there are only two major hole saw mandrel thread sizes:

• 1/2"-20 thread size, and
  
• 5/8"-18 thread size
  

5/8"-18 is the larger of these two thread sizes, and 1/2"-20 is the smaller of the two.

Generally speaking, 5/8"-18 thread hole saws can capacitate hole saw of larger diamter, and because hole saw thread size corresponds to mandrel thread size, the thread size of a hole saw mandrel collar screw determines the range of hole saw diameter sizes that are compatible with the mandrel.

In addition, hole saw mandrels with a 1/4" arbor shaft diameter are only available in 1/2"-20 thread sizes, meaning that, in the case of 1/4" diameter mandrels, the arbor diameter determines the thread size, which in turn determines (and restricts) the range of hole saw diameter sizes that are compatible with the mandrel.

The chart below shows which thread sizes are available for the three different mandrel arbor diameter sizes:

Mandrel Arbor Diameter            Thread Size Availability

               1/4"              →           1/2"-20 only

             11/32"            →           1/2"-20 and 5/8"-18

              7/16"             →           1/2"-20 and 5/8"-18

So, each of the two thread sizes corresponds to a given range of compatible hole saw diameter sizes. Smaller hole saws for mandrels with 1/2"-20 thread sizes, and larger hole saws for mandrels with 5/8"-18 thread sizes, generally.

We say "generally," because there's quite a bit of variation in this range of compatible hole saw diameter sizes (dictated by mandrel thread size) among manufactures.

Despite this variation, we offer the chart below to show what two plausible hole saw diameter compatibility ranges might look like in relation to a mandrel's thread size:

Mandrel Thread Size                 Hole Saw Diameter Compatibility Range

         1/2" – 20             →          9/16" to 1 &   3/16"  

         5/8" – 18             →          1 & 1/4" to 8 & 9/16"

Here are three guidelines to make choosing hole saw mandrel thread size easier:

1. If you already have the hole saw you need, great! Figure out its thread size and find a mandrel with the matching thread size.

2. If you're not shopping to match a mandrel to a specific hole saw, keep the approximate sizes of the holes you want to drill in mind when selecting mandrel thread size.

(Or, if the drill's chuck size will allow it, you can just buy two or more mandrels for your drill and be ready for any size of hole saw.)

3. Remember that hole saw mandrels only come in 1/2"-20 thread size for 1/4" arbor diameter mandrels.

This means you will only be able to use hole saws sizes compatible to 1/2"-20 thread size mandrels if your drill has a 1/4" chuck size.

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Select Additional Hole Saw Mandrel Features

Like other power tool accessories, hole saw mandrels are often designed with special features that either improve performance or meet special application needs.

Here's a list of some of a few mandrel accessories and features that shoppers can consider in addition to compatibility measurements:

mandrel extensions- long mandrel arbor extensions are often sold separately to lengthen the reach of hole saws.

locking mandrels- many manufacturers have developed mandrels with additional locking mechanisms that stabilize the hole saw.

quick change mandrels- some mandrels are specifically designed for fast changing between hole saws.

correction mandrels- specialized mandrel designs are available that guide the re-drilling of an existing hole (a mistake) to a larger diameter.

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Conclusion

Visit our Hole Saw Mandrels page here at eReplacementParts.com to browse our inventory of arbors from major manufacturers like DeWALT and Milwaukee.

Use this article's information to narrow down your search by compatibility measurements.

We make this and other information tools available on our website so that tool users can save time when it comes to keeping their equipment running, letting them focus on their projects instead.

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What we're about.

For example, if the battery's capacity, charge time, or storage characteristics are mismatched to the work or user, the expensive tool it's attached to might not do the user much good.

Cordless power tools are used all over, and they're becoming even more plentiful. Manufacturers release more cordless models, and more powerful models, every year. On top of that, power tool battery technology is also seeing rapid changes. This means that there are more battery options out there (and we'll probably be seeing more), and that many of those batteries are expected to do heavier work than ever before.

The best thing that shoppers can do is be as informed as possible about battery designs, performance, specifications, and features to keep up with the industry. The information in this article gives cordless tool users and shoppers the head-start they need to choose the right rechargeable battery types for their cordless tools, and then get the most out of them.

Cordless Tool and Battery Type Buying Guide Chart

Rechargeable Battery Characteristics

There are a few terms and characteristics about rechargeable batteries that shoppers should become familiar with before setting out to make a cordless power tool purchase.

Things that affect a battery's overall life and run time are usually the determining factors when power tool battery shoppers zero in on a decision (after cost of course), so most of the characteristics explained below have some influence on how long a battery will last.

cycle life-

The overall life of the battery, usually expressed as the number of charge cycles that it can withstand before completely losing its charge capacity or ability to transfer energy. For example, NiCd batteries tend to have a cycle life of 1,000 charges (cycles) or more. 

All rechargeable batteries eventually wear out, although they wear out for different reasons.

Age, use, and memory effect can all contribute to the inevitable death of a power tool battery, depending on the battery type.

Users often have to choose between a long cycle life and other attractive features, like run time. For example, because they can run longer between charges than other battery types, the shorter cycle life of Li-Ion batteries isn't usually a problem for users who care more about keeping their tool in operation for longer periods.

self-discharge-

All rechargeable batteries slowly lose their charge  when not in use, but some batteries lose their charge much faster than others.  

For some users, batteries with fast self-discharge rates aren't a problem, especially if their cordless tool's see little or no storage. Batteries with a slower self-discharge rate become more important for tool users who plan to user their cordless tools only occasionally.

voltage-

Voltage determines how much power a battery can deliver at a given time. Simply, cordless tools with higher voltage are more powerful.

Rechargeable power tool batteries are usually a cluster of individual cells. The combined voltage of the cells determines the battery's overall voltage; however, different types of batteries (NiCD, NiMH, Li-Ion) have different individual battery cell voltage capacities.

For example, the battery for an 18v cordless drill with a lithium battery would consist of around 4 individual Li-Ion battery cells, because Li-Ion batteries can typically deliver 3.6v-4.2v per cell. Individual cell voltage for NiCd and NiMH batteries are about 1.2v and 1.4-1.6v, respectively.

Very roughly, and with some overlap, the scale for matching tool voltage to workload is like this:

Light Work:         7v-15v
Medium Work:   12v-18v
Heavy Work:     18v-36v

capacity (run time)-

This is the amount of time a battery can operate its tool between charges. A battery's capacity it usually expressed as the amount of amperage hours (Ah) that it can deliver.

"Ah" is different than the tool's overall amperage rating (the current at which the tool operates). Instead, Ah represents how much energy flow the battery can hold, not the level of current during operation.

When shopping for cordless tools and their batteries, just remember that a higher Ah means longer battery use between charges.

deep discharge-

Deep discharge means allowing a tool battery to completely drain of energy through normal operation. Deep discharge can be a problem for some batteries, and drastically reduce a battery's cycle life and capacity. For other battery types, deep discharge is not a problem.

Also , some batteries require deep discharge periodically to keep the battery healthy. This additional maintenance can be a hassle for users who do not use their cordless tools often.

memory effect-

Memory effect happens when a battery is charged over and over again without being allowed to fully drain. The idea is that somehow the battery "remembers" how much it is being recharged, and then adopts the shorter charge range as its new charge capacity.

Interestingly (and confusingly), the nickel based batteries that are susceptible to memory effect retain their capacities best when they are charged after dropping to only 70% of their capacity. However (and this is the trick), they must be allowed to deep discharge periodically so that the battery "remembers" its true capacity.

Some rechargeable batteries are sensitive to "memory effect," and some are not.

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Power Tool Battery Types

There are three major rechargeable battery technologies in use today for cordless power tools: nickle cadmium (NiCd), nickle metal hydride (NiMH), and lithium ion (Li-Ion).

We describe these battery types below, list pros and cons, and offer an overview of characteristics and specifications for each.

Nickle Cadmium (NiCd)

The oldest design of the three, NiCd batteries are still in use today because they are tough, inexpensive, and have a long cycle life. Although they are still great for some jobs, NiMH and Li-Ion outperform NiCd batteries overall.

Pros:

• NiCd batteries are more difficult to damage from heat and impact.
  
• NiCd batteries have a longer cycle life of about 1,000 charges.
  
• They put out strong current flow.
  
• They are less easily damaged by being stored in deep discharge, although it is still not recommended.
  
• They are less expensive than other rechargeable batteries.
  

Cons:

• Nickel Cadmium batteries are the heaviest of the three types.
  
• Lower capacity than other batteries.
• NiCds shouldn't be allowed to drop below about 70% charge between charges, or the battery lifetime can be shortened.
  
• Most NiCd batteries must be allowed to cool before being recharged.
  
• Must be allowed to deep discharge about once a month or they will suffer severely from memory effect.
• The cadmium in NiCd batteries is very damaging to the environment and must be disposed of correctly.

NiCd Battery Overview:

cycle life: long; 1000+ charge cycles

self-discharge: moderate, 15%-20%

capacity: low; 1.2 Ah – 2.2 Ah

optimal charge time: fast

maintenance: high; deep discharge once/month

memory effect: high if not maintained properly

sensitivity: very tough

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Nickle Metal Hydride (NiMH)

A newer technology, NiMH batteries improve upon NiCd in several ways, including less toxicity to the environment.

The biggest improvement with NiMH is their increased capacity, which can be two to three times longer than NiCd batteries. However, NiMH are also very sensitive to storing and charging conditions.

Pros:

• NiMH batteries are a little lighter than NiCd batteries.
  
• They have a higher energy density, meaning that their capacity is greater than NiCd batteries, running 2 to 3 times longer in a single charge.
  
• They are less expensive than Li-Ion batteries.
  
• Capacity loss can be reduced drastically if charged and stored properly, making it possible to greatly increase their cycle life.
• They are not destructive to the environment.
  

Cons:

• NiMH batteries are more sensitive to temperature, especially cold temperatures, and should only be stored or operated between about 33°F – 103°F.
  
• Deep discharge and lack of use will damage NiMH batteries, shortening their lifespan and limiting their storage capacity.
  
• Should usually be charged after reaching 70% capacity, but should also be allowed to deep discharge every three months to avoid memory effect.
  
• They are more expensive than NiCD batteries.
  

NiMH Battery Overview:

cycle life: varies; can be as long as NiCd if stored and charged correctly.

self-discharge: fast; 20%-30%

capacity: moderate; 2.2 Ah – 3.0 Ah

optimal charge time: fast

maintenance: moderate; deep discharge once/three moths

memory effect: moderate; can be avoided with proper charging

sensitivity: very sensitive to temperature

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Lithium Ion (Li-Ion)

Lithium ion batteries (Li-Ion) are the newest technology in rechargeable batteries to be introduced to cordless power tools. They are definitely the best choice of the three types of batteries, outperforming in all areas, but they are also expensive.

Heat is the biggest risk to Li-Ion batteries. Because they do not suffer from memory effect, Li-Ion batteries do not wear out over time because of charging issues. Instead, Li-Ion batteries wear out because of age and use.

Regular age and use wear down the internal components of Li-Ion batteries and reverse their electro-chemical processes. Heat, at any time during use or charging, is the major cause of accelerated deterioration in Li-Ion batteries.

Even with their relatively short life cycles, Li-Ion remain a better choice because of they charge fast and have a high capacity. Also, because the technology is still pretty new, Li-Ion batteries are still seeing many improvements that overcome their minor disadvantages.

Pros:

• Li-Ion batteries are the most light-weight of the three kinds of rechargeable batteries.
  
• Li-Ion batteries benefit from high energy density like NiMH batteries do.
  
• They are much less sensitive to damage from temperature changes than NiMH batteries.
  
• Li-Ions are not restricted in the shape of their design like NiCd and NiMH batteries are, and can be designed in almost any shape for better tool balance.
  
• They do not suffer from self-discharge and memory effect like NiCd and NiMH batteries, meaning that they're much less sensitive to recharging and storage methods.
  
• They have the longest charge/recharge life cycle of all three types of batteries.
  
• Li-Ion batteries are not destructive to the environment.
  

Cons:

• Excessive overheating of Li-Ion batteries can damage or destroy them, which can occasionally happen during recharge. However, most rechargers and Li-Ion batteries are designed with safety features to prevent overheating.
  
• They have the shortest overall life cycle of about 300-500 charges.
  
• Li-Ion batteries are the most expensive batteries of these three types.
  

Li-Ion Battery Overview:

cycle life: short; 300-500 cycles, or about 2-3 years.

self-discharge: very slow or not at all.

capacity: high; 3.0 Ah+

optimal charge time: moderate

maintenance: none

memory effect: none

sensitivity: sensitive to heat and impact

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Power Tool Battery Shapes

The three most common shapes of cordless power tool batteries are:

• pod
• stick, and
• slide

The effects of these shapes on actual battery performance is nominal, but battery shapes can affect user preference by the way that they contribute to the overall balance of the tool.

Li-Ion batteries are especially liked by users, because the way they are made does not restrict them to blocky shapes, and they can be contoured to provide better tool balance.

Shoppers should consider these battery shapes when they feel the weight and balance of a tool in their hands. When it comes to ordering replacement batteries, knowing the shape of your battery will help you find an accurate match.

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Power Tool Battery Chargers

Cordless tool battery chargers should also be selected very carefully, because the quality of the charger can greatly determine how long the batteries will last.

Most of the capacity loss and cycle life reduction that rechargeable batteries experience results from incorrectly charging the batteries or from heat damage during charging. Higher quality chargers have much more sensitive sensors and complicated electronics to ensure that batteries are charged optimally.

Battery chargers can be divided into three main speed categories (these do not apply to Li-Ion batteries):

Slow- These take 14-16 hours to charge nickle based batteries, and will be less expensive than other chargers.

Quick- Charge time of 3-6 hours. It is important to have a quality unit for faster chargers, or they will not switch over to a slower "trickle charge" when the battery is almost full. This is important, because overcharging is one of the major causes of memory effect with nickle based batteries.

Fast- Fast chargers can charge nickle based batteries in about an hour. Fast charging is best for NiCd and NiMH batteries, because it reduces memory effect. Selecting a good unit that switches to "trickle charge" at the right time is also important for fast chargers.

NiCd & NiMH Chargers:

• Buy the fastest charging charger you can afford.
• Buy a unit with sensors and electronics that optimize your battery type's charging needs.
• NiMH chargers can charge NiCd batteries, but not the other way around.

Li-Ion Chargers:

Li-Ion batteries can only be charged safely one way, at about a 3 hour charge time. Li-Ion charger units that suggest faster charging and decreased capacity loss should be approached with skepticism. Usually, these units only charge the battery to about 70% capacity and damage its long-term performance.

• Buy the most expensive charger you can afford.
  
• Focus on heat reducing features.
  
• Buy a unit with sensors and electronics that optimize your battery type's charging needs.

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Conclusion

If you're here to replace your cordless tool's battery, then shopping is just a matter of finding a match to the battery you already have. Visit our Batteries page here at eReplacementParts.com, another power tool accessories service available through our online warehouse and shipping service.

Shoppers on our website can find the exact battery they're looking for fast, thanks to our search narrowing features. Just click on your tool's manufacturer, voltage, or battery shape to view all matching batteries.

Also, take a look at our Battery Chargers page. Not getting the life or performance that you expected from your cordless tool batteries? It might be time to use this article's information to find a charger that fits the needs of your battery.

eReplacementParts.com is proud to offer these information resources and streamlined search options that help our customers save money and put their tools back to work.

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What we're about.

Not only are abrasive power tool accessories available in countless shapes (like wheels, cups, and core bits), but the list of qualities and specifications that change their performance is also long.

On top of that, manufacturers don't always advertise their diamond products with detailed specifications. Often, diamond products only indicate the type of work they are meant for, not the design details that suit them for the work.

In either case, knowing specification details and how they relate to tool performance is the best foundation that shoppers can have when matching diamond abrasives to their work.

Technical know-how helps tool users make the best purchasing decisions, regardless of how products are labeled and advertised by manufacturers.

Diamond abrasives are made by adhering diamond particles to a base material with a bonding agent. Sometimes the bonding agent also serves as the "base" of the product, and other times they are separate. Qualities related to this basic construction can drastically alter the product's performance, and are discussed below.

Because diamond abrasives are expensive, most purchasing guidelines for them aim to maximize cost efficiency. This is done by correctly matching a diamond product's durability to the kind of target material and work it will be doing.

Bond Types

Understanding the importance of bond type and bond hardness (discussed below) in diamond abrasives requires knowing how they wear and stay sharp.

Simply, (with the exception of "dressing") they stay sharp by wearing.

Friction, pressure, and heat during use causes dull, top-layer diamonds to pop out of the bond matrix, exposing fresh, sharp diamonds beneath.

The rate at which diamond abrasives wear/self-sharpen depends on a balance between material hardness and the strength of the bond holding the diamonds in place. The idea is to use blades that wear at a rate that replaces diamonds just as they begin to dull, maximizing the quality and speed of cutting being done, and durability.

There are three major types of bonding types used to manufacture diamond abrasives: metal matrix (sintered), resin, and electroplated.

Sintered/Metal Bonded

Metal bonded diamond abrasives are the most commonly used, because, generally speaking, they are the most durable and very general purpose.

Diamond grains are bonded to a metal matrix in a sintering process (heat and pressure) that layers diamond grains throughout the material. Sometimes this diamond/metal matrix is bonded to a separate base (usually steel), and sometimes the matrix also serves as the base.

Because of their durability, metal bonded diamond abrasives are the most cost effective unless the specialization of resin or nickel bond types is needed.

Although this bond type is generally "universal," metal bonded abrasives still vary between one another in terms of hardness and other factors, and need to be carefully matched to their applications.

• Most common metal bond grades (bond hardness): L, N (most common of the two)
  
• dressable
  
• the most durable and universal
  

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Resin

Construction of diamond abrasives using resin as a bonding material is very similar to the construction of non-diamond grinding wheels that use a resin agent.

Resin is a much softer bonding agent than metal matrix, and allows diamond particles to escape the product more readily. This means that resin bonded diamond abrasives do better at staying sharp than metal bond types, cut and remove material faster, are cooler cutting, are "dressable," and great for precision grinding and cutting.

The disadvantage is that resin abrasives will wear much faster. One, this restricts their use to materials in the soft to medium range.

Two, their lower durability means that it's even more important to select the right resin bond hardness for the target material. Otherwise, users will be going through products too quickly for the benefits of resin bonded diamond products to be cost effective.

• Most common resin bond grades (hardness): H, N, R
  
• dressable
  
• fast, cool cutting for precision work and finishing
  

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Electroplated (Nickel Bond)

Electroplated diamond products use a thin sheet of nickel to bond a single layer of diamonds to the product (usually blades).

This bond type is soft and wears very rapidly, is not dressable, should be restricted to softer materials, and is usually only cost effective for minimal use.

The advantages to this bond type are that nickel bonded diamond products are very abrasive and fast cutting. They can also be stripped and re-plated at minimal cost to the owner.

• Most common nickel bond grades: N, P, R
  
• not dressable, but can be stripped and replated
  
• maximum particle exposure, and high stock removal
  

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Bond Hardness

Correctly estimating the needed durability of a diamond abrasive is the most important purchasing consideration, because of their expense.

Bond hardness (along with bond type) is the most determining factor for durability, and must be matched correctly to material hardness. The general guidelines are these:

1. Softer bonds for harder application materials.

• Harder materials will wear (dull) diamond particles faster.
• This means that, in order for the product to stay sharp, a softer bonding agent is needed to allow diamond grains to escape the matrix more rapidly.
• Too hard a bond will cause very slow cutting, and risk heat damage to the abrasive.

2. Harder bonds for softer application materials.

• Softer materials will not wear diamond particles as quickly.
• This means that particles are usable in the abrasive longer, and do not need to be ejected from the bonding matrix as rapidly in order to ensure efficient cutting.
• Too soft a bonding material will cause unnecessary wear, because still-sharp diamond grains will leave the product prematurely.

Bond hardness is expressed on an alphabetical scale, progressing from soft to hard from A to Z.

Again, it is important to mention that shoppers will still have to choose a specific bond hardness, even between diamond abrasives of the same bonding type.

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Diamond Grit Size (Mesh Size)

A specialized mesh is used during the manufacturing process of diamond abrasives, serving two purposes:

1. The mesh sorts diamond grit sizes within a specific range, and

2. It positions the diamond grains for bonding.

• Because of this, "mesh size" and "grit size" are interchangeable terms when talking about diamond abrasives.

A high grit number corresponds to smaller diamond grains, meaning a finer abrasive. A lower grit number means larger, more corsely-cutting grains.

Particularly with diamond abrasives, grit size affects the "micro damage" to the surface finish. Although the cutting power of a lower grit number might be attractive, the roughness of its cut may not be the best thing if a very fine finish is desired in the end.

Diamond abrasives aren't always labeled with their exact grit number, sometimes advertised as simply being of coarse, medium, or fine grit.

Below are the grit number ranges that generally make up these categories:

Coarse:          20-80; (masonry, concrete, and stone)

Medium:         80-200; (glass, ceramics, and quarts)

Fine:              200-400; (slow grinding, and fine polishing)

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Diamond Concentration

The concentration of diamond grains in their bond matrix can be altered in diamond abrasives to achieve different effects in performance.

Concentration is expressed much like grit size, using a system of "round" numbers that represent specific volumetric distributions of diamond grains. For example, concentration number 100 is typical for diamond abrasive products, and it corresponds to an exact measurement of 4.4 carats (of diamonds) per cubic centimeter, or, 25% concentration of diamonds by volume in the bonding matrix.

The chart below offers a few examples of diamond concentration conversions:

Diamond Concentration Conversion Chart

General guidelines about diamond concentration:

• Higher concentration will make blades more durable and produce a finer finish, but it will also cause slower cutting speeds because of increased friction.
• Abrasives with a lower diamond concentration are generally better for hard materials, and they cut much faster.
  

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Diamond Grades and Types

Just like diamonds that are used in jewelry, abrasive diamonds come in many types and grades.

The nomenclature and categorizing systems for these features are excessively technical, extensive, and often confusing.

Changes in diamond type and grade do affect diamond abrasives, but only in a secondary way when compared to the other, more critical, features and design differences discussed in this article.

Because of the depths of these topics and their relative unimportance, we won't delve any further into the subject. However, we make this brief mention to acknowledge that shoppers will eventually encounter these terms, and invite them to investigate diamond grades and types if their applications demand it.

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Conclusion

Need to find that perfect diamond abrasive? Visit our Diamond Abrasives page to browse through our huge selection of diamond blades, diamond cups, and diamond core bits.
 

Remember, shopping with durability and cost-effectiveness in mind is the way to go with diamond abrasives. The hardness of the bond and other product features must be balanced with material hardness and the type of work being done.

To help make the search easier, shoppers visiting eReplacementParts.com can narrow diamond abrasive searches by selecting what kind of target material they have in mind. This way, the only products that display on the page are those that combine features for the selected application material.

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 What we're about.

Some of the similarities that recip blades share with other blades are the materials they're made with and the kinds of set styles available for them (raker, wavy, etc.). However, little details (like measurements and dimensions) are important for recip saw blades for different reasons.

We describe the ins and outs of reciprocating saw features and manufacturing differences below, so that shoppers will have everything they need to find blades that best match their application.

Measurements and Dimensions

Although recip blades share some common measurements with other saw blade types, many of the measurements for recip blades are important for completely different reasons.

Below is a list of the most important reciprocating saw blade dimensions and measurements to consider when making a purchase. Length, width, and thickness have a lot to do with determining  blade performance, so they should weigh in heavily.

TPI-

Teeth Per Inch (pitch) has a lot to do with how aggressive or not a blade is. Fewer teeth per inch generally means faster, rougher cuts.

Blades with more teeth per inch are generally slower and finer cutting, but this is usually not a problem, because low TPI blades are usually made for metal cutting that is generally done best at slower speeds.

TPI choice in a blade should also be partially determined by the thickness of material being cut. The general guideline is that at least three cutting teeth should be in the material at all times.

Most recip blades are available in the 6-36 TPI range, but most general wood and metal cutting is done by blades in the 6-18 TPI range. Blades with a TPI higher than 18 are often for specialty applications, or strictly for metal cutting.

length-

This measurement greatly affects the performance of reciprocating saw blades. Depending on the application, recip blades need to be more or less flexible and more or less tough, like for cutting through wood with nails.

Longer recip blades allow more flexibility, and are a little less aggressive than shorter blades. Shorter reciprocating saw blades will be stiffer and more aggressive, because of their rigidity.

Also, users of recip blades should overshoot their blade length just a little. This is because reciprocating saws operate best when some of the blade is left to protrude from the work.

The general rule is that reciprocating saw blades should be one or two inches longer than the work they're cutting through, reducing the chance of slipping and binding in the work.

width-

Wider recip blades are a little more aggressive, and the extra support helps make them better suited for nails in wood cutting.

Lower width blades are best for finer cutting, and applications that need some additional flexibility.

thickness-

Like other saw blade types, the thickness of the blade does more than just determine the kerf width of the cut. This is also true for reciprocating saw blades.

Thinner blades tend to cut faster and are more flexible than thicker blades. Thicker recip saw blades are better for heavier applications, and for cutting through nails when necessary.

Most reciprocating saw blades are available between 0.035 inches and 0.062 inches in thickness.

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Tooth Set Styles

Recip saw blade set styles are virtually the same as set styles for other blades, like bandsaw and jigsaw blades, and similar application guidelines apply.

One important distinction to make with reciprocating saw blades is the difference between milled teeth and ground teeth.

We've listed the most common and important recip blade tooth designs and sets below.

Milled Teeth and Ground Teeth

Milled tooth and ground tooth designs are not a kind of saw tooth "set style," like those below.

Instead, one of these tooth types (and only one) can be combined with the the major set types below. For example, wavy set style reciprocating saw blades can be found in both milled and ground teeth varieties.

"Milled" Tooth Design:

"Milled" type saw teeth are more blunt than ground teeth. Although this makes for a rougher, faster, more aggressive cut, it also makes milled tooth reciprocating saw blades more wear resistant when cutting denser materials.

"Ground" Tooth Design:

"Ground" saw teeth are filed further to a sharper edge and point. This makes ground tooth blades better for finer cutting, although they will cut slower.

Also, the additional exposure of the of the blade teeth from the extra sharpening makes groung tooth blades wear more quickly. Because of this, ground tooth recip saw blades usually are not best for cutting high density materials.

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Wavy Set

For reciprocating blades, the wavy set pattern alternates cutting teeth left and right in-line with the thickness of the blade (meaning that the teeth do not extend over the boundary of the blade body).

Wavy set recip saw blades are great for very straight cuts, all around wood sawing, and they are very wear-resistant.

Wavy set blades are usable on all kinds of wood, plywood, plastic, and metals

Wavy Set Pattern (viewed from above)

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Raker Set

Fast cutting, and all-purpose, raker set reciprocating saw blades alternate cutting teeth left to right in a "side set" style (extending over the thickness of the blade body).

Raker blades are generally more aggressive and faster cutting that wavy set blades, and perform better for contour sawing.

Raker Set Pattern (viewed from above)

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Variable Pitch

"Pitch" is another way of saying TPI, a way of describing the density of cutting teeth along the length of the blade.

Variable pitch is not another kind of set style, but a feature that can be combined with existing set styles. The number of teeth per inch on a variable pitch reciprocating saw blade will be different on different parts of the blade.

Varying the pitch/TPI like this makes the blades more all-purpose, helps them to cut faster with better material removal, and reduces the risk of the blades catching or snagging while in operation.

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Reciprocating Saw Blade Materials

The four materials listed below are the most common materials used to make reciprocating saw blades, and they increase in hardness going down the list.

Although a harder blade cutting tooth material always means a more durable blade, harder materials are not always best for every application, mostly because certain applications need the flexibility that less durable materials offer.

Again, choosing this feature is a matter of application matching, because the tougher, expensive, more durable blades aren't always the best choice.

High Carbon Steel (HCS)-

This is the most flexible of the recip saw blade materials, but it is also the least durable. Because of their softness, high carbon steel blades are best when used only on woods, particle board, and plastics.

However, their flexibility is necessary for many kinds of cutting, and, being the most inexpensive blades, they are often the most economic choice.

High Speed Steel (HSS)-

A steel tempering process makes these blades more resistant to heat, and more durable than carbon steel blades. This extra hardness and protection makes them usable for many kinds of metal cutting without excessive wear.

Bi-Metal (BIM)-

Bi-Metal saw blades combine the best of high carbon steel and high speed steel. The body of these blades is made of high carbon steel (for the flexibility it offers), and the teeth are made with high speed steel (for the hardness/durability).

Bi-metal reciprocating saw blades can tackle applications that have a high demand for both toughness, and flexibility.

Tungsten Carbide (TC)-

This is the hardest of saw blade materials and the most expensive. Although brittle, the extreme hardness of carbide is necessary for similarly extreme applications and sawing very dense materials.

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Additional Features

There are some additional reciprocating saw blade options and features worth mentioning that shoppers might encounter:

Tapered Back-

Recip saw blades with tapered backs are designed to help with plunge cuts, where the nose of the blade is used to start the cutting. This is accomplished by narrowing the blade toward the nose, and makes cutting in very tight spaces possible.

Specialty Blades-

There are numerous reciprocating blades for "specialty" applications that combine blade specifications and features in unique ways.

One of the most common kinds of specialty blades are those advertised for rescue and/or demolition. Because of the extreme application, rescue/demo. recip blades combine large measurements, the hardest materials, and can even be glow-in-the-dark.

Bi-Directional Blades-

A new design innovation for recip blades are teeth that cut in both directions. Considering the already present, two-way motion of reciprocating saws, this blade design is very energy efficient. It also provides very fast cutting.

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Conclusion

Is it time for a new reciprocating saw blade, or one that better matches your application? If so, visit eReplacementParts.com's Reciprocating Saw Blades page.

Our search features are streamlined to help customers sort through Power Tool Accessory options with speed. Search results narrow down when customers click the desired measurements or application features at the top of the page,

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What we're about.

Although they are aggressive enough for use in robust applications like edge breaking and deburring, wire brushes won’t remove base material from their work. Also, wire brushes require little to no maintenance, because they are non-loading.

This is not the case when it comes to high speed polishing pads, because differences between polishing pads are not named and tracked by a standardized system, but rather by a general set of guidelines. These guidelines can help shoppers know how to choose the right polishing pad, and include only a few simple things, like pad materials.

Customers should be warned, though, that some manufacturers often use their own system for distinguishing pad differences (usually a color coded system) for both wool and foam pads, but these systems are not standardized across the industry and can often lead to confusion. It's usually best for shoppers to choose pads from knowledge of specific design and material details.

The information below covers the factors that effect a polishing pad's performance, applications for different types of pads, and major types of polishing pads.

Polishing Pad Basics

High speed polishing pads are most often used on grinders and orbital machines for wet, dry, compound, and other kinds of polishing. They are also used to buff different compounds into a variety of surfaces, like auto paint and metals.

Most of the work that polishing pads do is in the delicate, 1500 to 2000 grit range that is necessary to produce a shine.

The work that polishing pads do gets broken up into four major areas of polishing: "cutting," buffing, finishing, and compounding.

• "Cutting" refers to the work that the grittier end of polishing pads do, as they more-aggressively remove material and oxidation from their application surface.

• Buffing is the intermediate step of middle-range aggression pads that begins to develop a polish, picking up where the cutting stage leaves off.

• Finishing involves using the lowest grit pads to remove buff marks and any other damage left over and/or caused by buffing.

• Compounding is any kind of polishing that involves the use of a compounding liquid/substance. Compounding liquids contain suspended abrasives of various grits to aid in some kinds of cutting and polishing.
  

Polishing that does not involve "cutting" is often called "clear coat polishing," because buffing and finishing only involve minimal material removal in the topmost clear coat of a paint finish.

Although commonly called "high speed polishing" because of the use of power grinders and orbital tools, it is best to run polishing pads at slower speeds (around 1500 RPM) to prevent heat buildup, excessive polishing aggression, and heavy wear to the pad.

The biggest distinction between polishing pad types lies between wool and foam pads, and is the first consideration to make when choosing a pad.

In general, wool pads are for more aggressive work and require less user finesse to use correctly. Foam pads are generally used for more delicate, finishing work, and require a little more skill on the user's part to operate.

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Wool Polishing Pads

Generally more aggressive and easy to use than foam polishing pads, wool pads are designed in varieties that cover a range of uses, and are the only pads needed for some jobs.

Wool pads are easier for users to handle than foam pads because of their long fibers. While in use, these fibers lie down to some degree or another, giving the user a little bit of play in the bounce of the machine and the resistance of the pad to the surface it's being used on.

They cut more aggressively, because their many fibers produce more abrasive surface area than foam pads, optimizing them for cutting and buffing applications.

Another advantage to wool pads is that they produce less heat than foam pads, meaning less risk of damaging the polishing surface. Synthetic wool materials produce more heat than natural wool.

Wool pads are also limited because of their aggression, although some wool materials and designs compensate for this. Generally, wool pads tend to leave more and deeper buffing marks that have to be cleaned up by lower grit pads.

Polishing often involves starting with wool pads for cutting, and then switching to foam pads for finish and shine.

Below are some tips that explain how wool polishing pad grit and aggression are determined, and some descriptions of major types of wool polishing pads.

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Wool Pad Aggression

Unlike other abrasives, wool polishing pad aggression is not controlled by the grain size of abrasive materials in the pads, because they lack abrasive grains. For wool pads, the only abrasive material needed is the wool.

This means that wool pad grit and aggression are controlled by other properties: pile length, pile density, and the kind of wool (or synthetic wool) being used.

"Pile" refers to the piles of wool fibers grouped together and their orientation.

pile length-

As wool polishing pad fibers grow longer, the pads become less aggressive. This is by simple virtue of physics, in that longer fibers will lie down more when the pad is in use, and shorter fibers will be stiffer and work against the polishing surface more.

pile density-

The density of wool fibers in a polishing pad is another partial contributor to the aggression of the pad. Higher density increases aggression slightly because more fibers are available to contact the polishing surface per square inch.

Pile density also effects how well a wool pad works for compounding applications, as denser pads will hold more compounding solution.

materials-

The type and blend of wool used in a polishing pad greatly determines its grit.The wool pad material types in the next subsection are listed in order of decreasing aggression (except 4-Ply Twisted Wool, because it is a feature available in many pad types).

Natural wool is the most aggressive, blends of synthetic and natural wool become less aggressive as more synthetic wool is used, then, synthetic wool pads are the next least aggressive, and then, finally, lamb's wool pads are the least aggressive of the wool pads.

Wool and foam combination pads are designed to give the pads a wide range of possible applications.

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Wool Pad Types

The common types of wool polishing pads listed below are in order of decreasing grit (generally), going down the list.

Natural Wool-

Low on heat and the most aggressive of the wool pads. Natural wool pads leave fewer buff marks than other wool pads (despite their grit), their fibers retain their shape better, and they are less likely to shed fibers during use.

Blended Wool-

There are endless varieties and balances of synthetic/natural wool polishing pads. Pads become less aggressive as the ratio shifts in favor of synthetic wool.

Wool/Acrylic Blend-

A 50/50 natural wool to acrylic fiber blend is one very common type of blended wool pad. This unique blend gives the pads a wider range of application, from light compounding to heavy polishing.

Synthetic Wool-

Less cutting aggression than natural wool pads. Synthetic wool is also very durable.

These are used for moderate cutting, but pose the danger of heat damage to the polishing surface, because synthetic wool pads heat up more than any other wool pad.

Wool and Foam-

Wool and foam combination pads use a patented process that forms wool fibers into a disk that is much like foam abrasive pads. This design bridges many qualities of both wool and foam pads, allowing them to do work from light cutting to finishing. The idea is that they are the only pads needed, start to finish, for many polishing jobs.

Lamb's Wool-

Lamb's wool pads are more expensive than other wool polishing pads, but they are the softest and least abrasive. Lamb's wool polishing pads are great for light clear coat polishing and finishing.

4-Ply Twisted Wool-

This is not a type of wool material, but a manufacturing feature that can be applied to different kinds of wool polishing pads. They are most commonly used for heavy compounding,

The fibers of these pads are twisted, making them much more durable. 4-ply twisted wool pads are much more aggressive than other pads, especially when being used with compounding liquid, but the real advantage here is that the pads will last longer and will operate in the same grit range longer, as they tend to wear down more slowly.

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Foam Polishing Pads

Foam polishing pads are used for the lower grit work of polishing applications to remove swirl lines, light oxidation, and bring out a shine.

Color code systems for these pads can be misleading and confusing, so it's best just to look at each individual pad's features and intended application.

Foam pads are generally harder to handle on high speed polishers than wool pads, and they also create more heat.

One advantage to foam pads is that they dry up compounding substances less quickly than wool pads, so users have to stop less frequently when using foam pads.

Because color codes and other "rules" can be ambiguous when shopping for foam pads, we recommend focusing on the following features to get a good match:

Pores per square inch (ppi)-

Because foam pads are often used for compounding, the density of pore distribution on the pad greatly effects how much compounding substance the pad can hold, and, consequently, how aggressive the pad is when compounding.

Fewer pores per square inch means more aggression, because bigger pores will be able to hold more compounding liquid and compounding liquids of higher grit. Higher ppi means less compounding aggression.

Foam pads with a higher ppi are better for use with wax than with abrasive compounding substances. Ppi generally ranges between 30 and 100 pores per square inch.

Hardness-

Different brands of foam pads can indicate the pad's hardness in different ways.

Some manufacturers may use a grit scale, while others will just indicate the kind of work for which the pad is intended (like cutting, finishing, ultra finish, etc.). Do the best with whatever information is offered to determine the pad's hardness.

Special features-

Foam pad manufacturing technology is constantly changing and improving, which is one of the reasons why it's hard to make concrete rules about foam polishing pads.

Many manufacturers showcase special pad features and patented processes that improve pad performance one way or another. Most of these features will boil down to personal preference, so learn as much about technology and unique pad designs as possible.

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Conclusion

Our large inventory of power tool and equipment accessories includes a selection of wool and foam polishing pads here at eReplacementParts.com, and can be found on our Polishing Pads accessories page.

We want our customers to have the best information tools at their disposal so they can be confident that they're getting their money's worth when shopping for replacement parts, accessories, and other products that require a little know-how.

If you're looking for abrasive power tool accessories, like polishing pads, visit our Abrasives accessories page and take advantage of our fast search features, and speedy online service.

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What we're about.

Like most other power tool accessories, abrasive wheels are available in a huge variety of types and styles suited for different applications, and most of these types and styles are separated by only small variations in materials and design features.

Cutting wheels and grinding wheels are custom fit to their jobs by a combination of a wheel's measurements, abrasive material, grit, hardness, bond material, and wheel type.

Each of these abrasive wheel design features are explained below, giving shoppers the information they need to quickly match compatible abrasive wheels to their tools and applications.

Abrasive Wheel Measurements

It's important to consider a few measurements and specifications when shopping for abrasive wheels.

The items listed below help shoppers match a wheel to its tool, and they also provide some guidelines for use:

Diameter-

This measurement partially determines wheel-to-tool compatibility. For cupped wheels, the largest diameter on the wheel is measured.

Arbor size-

Also used for matching tool compatibility.

Thickness-

Contributes to matching tool compatibility and application. Cutting wheels, for example, are thinner than grinding wheels.

Max RPMs-

Not a measurement, but a specification. A number of production factors determine each abrasive wheel's "radial tensile strength" (the rotational speed at which centrifugal forces will tear the wheel apart).

The max RPM specification tells users the maximum speed at which it is safe to operate each unique wheel.

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Color Coded Application System

Most manufacturers follow an industry color code labeling system that marks the intended application material for each abrasive wheel.

Abrasive Wheel Color Code System

This color code is usually located on the wheel label where the ANSI marking system name is printed.

Sometimes the entire box that contains the ANSI name is shaded to the corresponding application color, and sometimes only the text of the ANSI name matches the corresponding color.

Milwaukee Stainless Grinding Wheel

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ANSI Standard Marking System

The power tool industry also uses the ANSI (American National Standards Institute) marking system to identify material types and material specifications used in the production of abrasive wheels.

The ANSI marking system is a shorthand naming system that communicates a lot of information about abrasive wheels in a very short space.

The naming system includes information regarding four things:

1. what kind of grain material an abrasive wheel uses,
2. the grit (or size) of the abrasive particles in the wheel,
3. the overall hardness of the wheel, and
4. the type of bonding material used.

This is the syntax for the ANSI marking system:

[Grain Material][Grit][Hardness]-[Bond Material ]

Example: "C24S-BF" is an ANSI marking system name for a common type of masonry grinding wheel.

• "C" here refers to the wheel's grain material (Silicon Carbide in this case).
• "24" is the grit of the wheel (on the coarse side).
• "S" is the hardness of the wheel (on the harder side of the scale), and
• "BR" is the bonding material used in the wheel (Resinoid Reinforced in this case).
• [C][24][S]-[BF]
  

We explain each part of the ANSI marking system below in more detail.

Grain Material

The first portion of an abrasive wheel's ANSI name is one or two letters that indicate(s) the type of abrasive grain material used in the wheel.

Abrasive Grain Material Shorthand

The properties of different abrasive wheel grain materials make them better for different applications and application materials.

Abrasive wheels for power tools are typically made from one of the types of abrasive materials listed below:

Aluminum Oxide-

Aluminum oxide grains are coarse and blocky. Aluminum oxide abrasive wheels are tough, widely used, and promote long life for the wheel.

These are best suited for metal cutting and grinding, including ferrous metals.

ANSI notation: "A"

Silicon Carbide-

With a sharper grain shape, silicon carbide is a great abrasive for concrete and masonry applications. It is a hard abrasive, but more brittle than aluminum oxide.

Silicon carbide is also used for non-ferrous metal grinding, like aluminum metal work.

ANSI notation: "C"

Aluminum Zirconium-

Aluminum zirconium is a very fine, dense grain abrasive, and is the toughest abrasive derived from aluminum.

These wheels are used for very rapid, aggressive stock removal and are very durable.

ANSI notation: "Z" and sometimes "ZA"

Seeded Gel-

These high performance wheels are made by a carefully controlled manufacturing process using aluminum oxide grains. The grains are powdered very small and slowly fused with a bonding agent.

Seeded gel abrasive wheels last the longest of those described here, they stay sharp the longest, and they require the least maintenance.

ANSI notation: "SG"

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Grit

Grit simply refers to the size of the abrasive grains infused in a wheel. Varying grit sizes give abrasive wheels varying degrees of aggression and durability.

Instead of using the actual measurements of the abrasive grains, the tool industry uses rounder figures for measuring grit from what is called the CAMI scale. (Conversion charts can easily be found between CAMI units and particle size if needed)

The chart below provides a general idea of grit ranges for abrasive cutting wheels and grinding wheels:

Abrasive Wheel Grit Chart

The grit number occupies the second portion of a wheel's ANSI name.

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Hardness

The hardness of an abrasive wheel partially determines how quickly the wheel will wear against different materials,  and how aggressively the wheel will clear material.

Because of this, hardness also helps to determine a wheel's optimal application materials.

The tool industry uses the ANSI hardness scale that progresses from softer to harder from A to Z.

Abrasive Wheel Hardness Scale

This letter is the third portion of a wheel's ANSI name.

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Bond Material

The abrasive grains in cutting and grinding wheels have to be held together by some kind of material, a bonding material.

There are several varieties of bonding materials and bonding methods, including fiberglass mesh reinforcement.

One or two letters make up the last portion of a wheel's ANSI name after the dash, indicating the bonding material used in that wheel.

Abrasive Wheel Bond Material Shorthand

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Cutting and Grinding Wheel Types

Lastly, the shape and thickness of a grinding wheel decide a wheel's type. Abrasive wheel types use a type numbering system.

We explain the features and applications of the most common types of abrasive wheels below:

Type 1 Straight Grinding Wheel

An all around edge grinding wheel design. Not used for cutting.

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Type 1A Straight Cutting Wheel

A thinner variation of Type 1 grinding wheels. Type 1A wheels are used for 90 degree angle cutting.

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Type 27 Depressed Center Grinding Wheel

Grinding wheels with depressed centers, like Type 27 wheels, are used for grinding on flat surfaces and edge cleaning.

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Type 27A Depressed Center Cutting Wheel

Type 27A cutting wheels are best for light cut-off work, as they are a thinner version of Type 27 wheels.

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Type 28 Saucer Grinding Wheel

This design offers great area coverage and improved user visibility for de-burring work and other edge preparation work.

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Type 29 Flexible Grinding Wheel

A flexible design makes these abrasive wheels capable of smoothing and grinding contoured surfaces.

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Type 11 Flared Cup Grinding Wheel

Abrasive cup wheels offer even more area coverage than saucer shaped wheels.

These are best for clearing material on large flat areas.

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Conclusion

Power tool owners get the most out of their machines when they have the right information tools in their belts, and the same goes for power tool accessories. Even seemingly minor items like abrasive wheels have their own checklists of terminology, measurements, and identification systems.

If you're looking for abrasive wheels, put our information tools to the test by visiting eReplacementParts.com's Abrasive Wheels tool accessories page.

Customers can quickly search our inventory of hundreds of abrasive wheels by narrowing search results with the information provided in this article.

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What we're about.

Knowing band saw blade terminology, measurements, tooth arrangements, materials, and tooth types all factor in when matching these blades to their saws and applications.

We explain the basics about band saw blades below, putting essential tool accessory information into the hands of shoppers.

Terms and Measurements

Each of the terms and measurements below has a key role in determining the particulars of band saw blade performance.

Even very minor changes can change a blade to suit it for cutting different materials, at different speeds, and so forth.

Gullet-

Just like other types of saw blades, gullets are those cutouts between teeth that allow material to be ejected when cutting.

Gullet Depth-

This is the length measured from the base of a gullet to the top of a cutting tooth.

Deeper gullets allow for faster cutting, because they can eject more material at a higher rate. Blades designed for slower cutting have shallower gullets, like with most metal cutting band saw blades.

Weld-

Band saw blades have their ends welded together somewhere on the blade. The quality of this weld and its position between teeth greatly effects the durability and toughness of a blade.

Blade welds should be made at exactly the middle point between the tops of cutting teeth for the best strength. 

Kerf-

This is the thickness of a blade's cutting teeth, and, therefore, also the thickness of the cut that a blade will make.

Kerf width will also partially determine the feed rate of a blade, as thicker kerf blades cut more slowly than thinner kerf blades.

Length-

The total length of a band saw blades is used to match their compatibility to specific saws.

Width-

Width is the total length of the blade backing and the teeth, and it is also used to partially determine saw compatibility.

Blade width also effects the the type of contour cutting that can be done with a band saws. The wider a blade, the less maneuverability it has to make small-radius contour cuts.

This chart offers guidelines for matching band saw blade thickness to minimum radii of contour cuts:

For cutoff work, band saw blades should be as thick as the saw and material will allow.

TPI/Pitch-

TPI stands for "teeth per inch" when talking about band saw blades. "Pitch" is interchangeable with TPI when talking about band saw blades.

Fewer teeth means more aggressive, faster cutting through materials that allow it, like most woods. More teeth per inch will make a blade cut more finely and slowly, and is better adapted for cutting very hard materials (like metals) that would wear out an aggressively-toothed blade prematurely.

TPI should also determine the thickness of material being cut, or vice versa. Band saw blades perform most optimally when at least three teeth are in the stock material at any given time. This means that blades have a minimum material thickness requirement for them to cut most efficiently, depending on the TPI.

Set-

"Set" refers to the combination of cutting tooth directions (the angles at which the cutting teeth are bent and/or angled as seen from a top view of the teeth), and the ordered arrangement of different cutting teeth types along the blade.

Rake Angle-

This is the angle at which the cutting face of band saw teeth are positioned to contact the target material. The more positive the rake angle, the more aggressive the cut.

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Blade Set Styles

Manufacturers achieve different effects by leaning band saw blade teeth away from the center line of the blade in various patterns.

Here we list a few of the most common set styles for band saw blades.

Raker Set

Tooth Pattern: Left, Right, Straight
Set Angles: Uniform

Raker blades are best for verticle resawing and contour cutting. They are also also adapted for horizontal cutoff work on thick metal.

Modified Raker Set

Tooth Pattern: Left, Right, Left, Right, Straight
Set Angles: Uniform

This modification of the original raker makes these blades specialized for vertical wood cutting. Modified raker blades come in limited TPI and tooth type varieties.

Vari-Raker Set

Tooth Pattern: Left, Right, Straight
Set Angles: Variable

Great "all around" woodworking blades.

Alternate Set

Tooth Pattern: Left, Right
Set Angles: Uniform

Manufactured for fast, smooth woodworking cuts, and for work with non-ferrous metals.

Wavy Set

Tooth Pattern: 3 Left, 3 Right
Set Angles: Controlled Angle Changes

This is the best set style for sawing thin materials and for doing interrupted cuts.

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Blade Tooth Types

In combination with the other blade features and measurements already discussed in this article, band saw cutting tooth types also weigh in heavily on a blade's function.

Differences in cutting tooth types mostly adjust blades to balance relative durability against sawing aggression for specific piecework materials.

Tooth types also help determine how fast these blades cut, how quickly they can eject chips, and even what shape those chips take when they're sawed out of the kerf.

Regular Tooth

The most common cutting tooth type, because of its applicability for both cutoff and contour work on a wide range of materials.

Regular band saw blade teeth have flat cutting faces (zero degree rake angle), and deep gullets.

Hook Tooth

Hook teeth use a positive 10 degree rake angle to give blades extra aggression and a "digging" action that grabs the material, and they are generally spaced widely.

This tooth style is recommended for woods, non-ferrous alloys, and plastics, especially their harder varieties, and especially for longer cuts.

Band saw blades with a hook style teeth are most commonly available in raker set blades. Hook tooth gullets tend to curl chips as they are removed.

Skip Tooth

Skip tooth blade teeth are widely spaced like hook teeth, but their rake angle is zero degrees like regular teeth.

This tooth type is also characterized by a sharp angle where the teeth and gullets meet, and they tend to break chips up into smaller pieces.

Blades with this tooth type are designed for fast cutting through materials that would clog and gunk up a regular blade.

Variable Tooth

This tooth style varies tooth height, rake angle, and gullet depth. The lack of uniformity in this tooth design greatly reduces sawing vibration and noise.

This blade design is also great for all around shop work.

Modified Hook Tooth

When the aggression of a hook tooth's positive rake angle is needed for materials that also happen to clog blades up, modified hook teeth combine the best of hook tooth and skip tooth band saw cutting teeth designs.

The modification to the original hook tooth design on these blades is in the gullets, allowing them to clear material better than hook tooth blades.

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Band Saw Blade Materials

Like other friction-bearing power tool accessories, the materials that band saw blades are made from offer different levels of hardness and durability.

Carbon Steel-

The most traditional and least wear resistant of blade materials these days. However, carbon steel blades retain their place on the market, because inexpensive, general shop blades are still needed everywhere.

Bi-metal-

Becoming increasingly common, the tips of bi-metal blades are upgraded to high speed steel (HSS) for increased hardness, durability, and heat wear resistance.

Carbide Tipped-

The hardest, most durable, and most expensive. Carbide tipped blades can not be outperformed by other blade materials.

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Conclusion

Ready to put this article's information to the test? Visit our Band Saw Blades page and begin narrowing blade searches by the measurements and features discussed here.

Even simple items like blades, drill bits, and other accessories have a bit of a learning curve when it comes to making the right buy, and we think that shoppers and tool users should have the necessary information at their fingertips.

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What we're about.

Many blades are sold and advertised with extremely simple names instead of a detailed list of features and measurements. Some of these simply-named saw blades are very common and worth mentioning for reference.

There is a huge list of available saw blades, so we only list some of the most common blades here.

Each of the saw blade types described below match their simplified names by using unique combinations of many blade design features.

For more information about saw blade design features, view our "Saw Blades 101" article.

Also, for the purposes of this article, we consider .125" kerf (1/8") as the average kerf size. This is because, statistically, this is about the average kerf for 10" blades. Also, woodworkers tend to prefer 1/8" blades because of the "rounder" measurement when accounting for material loss.

General Purpose Blades

Just like the name suggests, these blades are great for comprehensive, medium-application coverage. These blades will make a very clean rip cut as well, as long as the material is not too thick.

Tooth Style: ATB
Hook Angle: between positive 10 and 20 degrees
Teeth: 40 is is average; usually about 3-4 teeth/inch
Materials: best for natural woods
Kerf: average: 1/8"

Example: The DeWALT 12" 32T General Purpose Saw Blade

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Heavy General Purpose Blades

A specific, more aggressive hook angle, a few FT teeth, and fewer cutting teeth make these blades just a little more hearty than regular general purpose blades.

Also called "All Purpose," and "Contractor" blades, these blades can cut through harder materials like plywood and particle board that are not recommended for regular general purpose blades.

The ATB+R style for these blades follows a 2:1 ratio of ATB teeth to FT teeth.

Heavy general purpose blades can make rip cuts and crosscuts, but they are much better adapted for ripping because they make rougher cuts.

Tooth Style: 2:1 ATB+R
Hook Angle: 22 degrees
Teeth: about 2-3 teeth/inch
Materials: natural woods and some fabricated materials
Kerf: wider kerf than average

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Rip Blades

The best blades for simple wood ripping using a uncomplicated combination of aggressive design features.

Tooth Style: FT
Hook Angle: usually about 20 degrees
Teeth: about 1-1.5 teeth/inch
Materials: any solid woods, soft or hard
Kerf: wider kerf than average (unless advertised as "Thin Kerf")

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Radial Arm Blades

This is the design feature combination that adapts circular saw blades for radial arm saws, used for crosscutting.

Tooth Style: depends on application. ATB for wood, and TCG for harder materials.
Hook Angle: negative 6 degrees
Teeth: about 5-10 teeth/inch
Materials: depends
Kerf: slightly wider than average

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"Thin Kerf" Blades

This does not refer to any specific thinness of a saw blade, but instead refers to blades that are specifically named and/or advertised as "Thin Kerf" blades.

"Thin Kerf" blades include design features intended to maximize the benefits of a thin kerf while minimizing the disadvantages. Features can vary, but they all seek to reduce wear potential, overheating, and blade flexing so that more aggressive cuts can be feasibly performed with lower horsepower machines.

Depending on the type of thin kerf blade, they can be adapted for both rip cuts and crosscuts.

Tooth Style: varies (usually depending on material)
Hook Angle: varies (usually depending on saw type)
Teeth: can be between 4-7 teeth/inch
Materials: "thin kerf" designs can be suited to nearly any material
Kerf: thin +special features

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Precision Trim Saw Blades

For the finest trim woodworking crosscuts. Usable on most saws. Not used for ripping cuts.

Tooth Style: ATB or HiATB
Hook Angle: positive 10 degrees for most saws and negative 6 degrees for radial saws
Teeth: about 4-8 teeth/inch
Materials: all kinds of wood and plywood
Kerf: very thin kerf

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Glue Rip Blades

Specialty ripping blades for woodwork that will involve gluing. These blades produce a very clean edge and smooth finish, and are most recommended for hardwood.

Tooth Style: TCG
Hook Angle: around positive 20 degrees
Teeth: 3-4 teeth/inch
Materials: all woods, especially hardwood
Kerf: average to a thicker than average

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Compound Miter Blades

These blade's combination of features make them the best for miter cuts with compound miter saws.

They can be found in variations to fit almost any application material, and they have the right balance of aggression and precision.

Coupound miter blades should not be used for ripping cuts.

Tooth Style: ATB or TCG, depending on material
Hook Angle: positive 10 degrees, or negative 6 degrees (for metal cutting and radial saws)
Teeth: about 4-6/inch
Materials: suitable blades are available for most materials
Kerf: slightly thicker than average

Example: The Bosch 10" TCG  Miter Saw Blade

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Melamine/Laminate Blades

These blades break the typical hook angle conventions for saw blades. Using a negative hook angle on non-radial saws prevents chipping and tearout with man-made materials like melamine.

A generous amount of cutting teeth and very thin kerfs make melamine/veneer blades the best for plywood and MDF as well.

TCG melamine blades will stay sharp longer, but they won't make as smooth a cut as HiATB melamine blades will. Users should choose between melamine blade tooth style based on how they prioritize delicacy and durability in the application.

Tooth Style: HiATB or TCG
Hook Angle: negative 6 degree hook angle
Teeth: 6-8 teeth/inch
Materials: man-made materials: glued woods, MDF, melamine, veneer and so forth.
Kerf: very thin kerf

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Teflon Blades

Some circular saw blades are teflon coated. The slick teflon material greatly reduces drag during cutting, making these blades excellent for high-friction applications.

The durability of teflon blades will help them stay sharp much longer. They are recommended for crosscutting all kinds of natural and man-made woods, but not for ripping cuts.

Tooth Style: ATB, most commonly
Hook Angle: depends
Teeth: about 5-8 teeth/inch
Materials: all kinds of wood
Kerf: thiner than average

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Conclusion

As we mentioned before, this is not a comprehensive list of every possible saw blade design, just some of the heavy hitters.

Saw blades are not "one size fits all," so becoming familiar with specific design features, measurements, and combinations of features is the best way for users to match blades that will provide optimal cutting performance.

Check out eReplacementParts.com's Standard Saw Blades page to view our expansive selection of circular saw blades for all kinds of applications and materials.

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What we're about.

The "standard" designation refers to the broadness of their application; it does not suggest simplicity. It takes an expansive list of blade design features and combinations for the tool industry to meet the long list of very specific saw blade uses out there.

For article about "Circular Saw Blade Types"-Click here.

Why Are Saw Blades So Complicated?

This is because standard blades are:

1. used, as mentioned, in several types of saws that sometimes require blade design changes or variations,

2. even within the same saw type, a large variety of blade designs can be used to optimize cutting through different materials, and

3. blade designs are also modified to suit them to a certain types of cuts.

These saw type, material type, and cut type demands are met in each specialized blade by a combination of several measurements and design factors. Then, most commonly, the blade is advertised and named for either its application material, the type of saw it is used in, cut type, or any combination of those general features.

(For Example: a saw blade designed for cutting melamine with a miter saw might be advertised and named a "Melamine Blade," or "Melamine Miter Blade," simplifying how the blade is identified. What makes a melamine miter blade suited for its task is a negative hook angle, having a slightly larger than average tooth count, being designed with HiATB cutting teeth, and having a thin kerf.)

But manufacturers are not always so specific, requiring customers to be more familiar with all the ins and outs of standard saw blade design in order to make the best purchases.

This Bosch 10" ATB 5/8" Arbor 40 Tooth Table Saw Blade, for example, is a "general use" blade, but a shopper would have to know that this combination of measurements and features means, "for general use" when translated.

To get started, we discuss basic information about saw blade parts, blade measurements, blade materials, cutting tooth design, and other features. Understanding the effects of these design variations on blade performance and function make it possible to match a blade to a job by these criteria.

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Parts of a Saw Blade

The major parts of a saw blade are:

Cutting Teeth-

The sharpened edges of the blade. There are a number of different saw blade tooth designs, including ATB, ATB+R, HiATB, TCG and HR (see below).

Arbor Hole-

The center hole of the blade. Although an obvious feature, arbor holes must be very accurately sized and centered on the blade for the blade to perform well. Arbor hole size also plays a role in matching a blade to its work and saw type.

5/8" and 1" are the two most common arbor hole sizes.

Gullet-

These are the cut out swoops in front of each cutting tooth. Gullets allow saw dust and chips to be ejected from the blade and cutting area.

Plate-

The plate of a blade includes everything but the teeth of the blade. Quality plate manufacture, and correct plate-width-to-teeth-kerf ratio are important for good blade performance.

Expansion Slots & Holes-

Cuts in the blade that start from the outside edge are called "expansion slots," and they usually include small holes at the end of a curved shape. These cuts give the blade a little room to expand when heating up during use, and they help dissipate some of the heat in the blade.

Keeping heat down like this helps saw blades cut more efficiently and last longer. Expansion cuts also help reduce blade vibration a little.

Sometimes the holes at the ends of these cuts are filled with copper plugs. These are for reducing noise while the blade is in use.

Laser Cuts-

Laser cuts are one of the newer features added to saw blades to reduce vibration. By making microscopic cuts in the side of the blade, natural tension and rigidity in the blade's material is released.

One of the cool ways to distinguish this design difference is to find an old blade without laser cuts, dangle it between two fingers, and give it a whack your knuckles. An uncut blade with all that tension still in its material will sing a solid tuningfork-like ring when struck. Laser cut blades will make a dull thud, and that's a good thing.

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Saw Blade Measurements

Even minor changes in saw blade measurements will change the nature of the blade's specialty and performance.

Important saw blade measurements:

Number of Teeth-

Each saw blade has a fixed number of teeth, obviously. How densely or not densely packed those teeth are along the circumference of the blade determines some of the blade's characteristics.

How big a blade is (it's diameter) will partially determine the number of teeth. That is to say that blades of larger diameter have more teeth on average than smaller blades by virtue of simple physics and statistics, but the number of teeth for a specific blade is a very carefully chosen design feature.

Because of the varying blade sizes, it's best to think about number of teeth in terms of how closely packed they are, or #of teeth/inch.

Blades with fewer teeth per inch cut more aggressively, require less power to operate, and generally have a faster feed rate, but they also make rougher cuts. Blades with more teeth per inch than average will make smoother, slower cuts, and also require more horsepower.

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Kerf-

Kerf is the width of the cut that a saw blade makes, the width of its cutting teeth.

The most common kerf is 0.125" (1/8"), because, especially in woodworking, the "round" 1/8" figure makes it easy to adjust measurement lines to account for material loss. Because of this, we refer to 1/8" kerf blades as the average to functionally talk about saw blades.

There are pluses and minuses to thick- and thin-kerfed blades for a given application.

Blades with a thicker kerf need more energy, and, of course, take more material out of the work. But they also are more likely to withstand heat buildup, wear less, resist vibration, and are prone to make cleaner cuts in most materials. Thicker kerfs are typically for slower, more precise cutting.

Thinner kerf blades cut down on how much power is necessary to run a blade, and are generally great for fast, abrasive ripping cuts; however, their thin design makes them more susceptible to heat damage, vibration, and fast wear. Some blades are named and advertised specifically as "thin kerf" blades.

Blades advertised as "thin kerf" blades usually include specific design modifications that attempt to bridge the gap between thin kerf pros and cons, making the thinner blades adaptable to slightly harder materials and heavier workloads.

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Plate Width-

The measurement of a blade's plate width is separate from the kerf width, because the plates of most blades are slightly thinner than the blade's teeth (kerf). The difference between these two widths is called the radial side clearance, allowing material to more easily leave the work area and preventing the blade from binding in its cut.

Plate width is a determining factor for matching a blade to its tool. See a saw's user manual for this and other blade measurement specifications.

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Diameter-

Blade diameter is no mystery, but it is one of the major factors for identifying a compatible blade.

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Hook Angle-

One way or another, the cutting teeth of a saw blade are going to occupy some angle in relationship to the rotation of the blade. In other words, the sharp edges of a saw blade are designed to make contact with material at a specific angle for optimum performance, depending on a number of factors.

Hook angle is the angle measurement made between the situation of the blade's cutting teeth and an imaginary line drawn across the diameter of a blade.

Zero Hook Angle is one where the teeth cutting edges exactly line up with the blade's diameter line, and it is the least common.

Positive Hook Angle is one where the angle of the teeth lean toward the rotation on the blade and is the most common.

Negative Hook Angle is where the teeth of the blade are angled to lean away from the rotation of the blade.

This measurement is a little more complicated, but extremely critical. Each style is suited for either a certain type of material, saw, or some combination.

In all cases, the hook angle is designed to keep put pressure on the work and pin it to the saw, to prevent material bounce-back, and, in some cases, to prevent tearout.

Positive hook angle blades are generally for circular saws, table saws, and ripping saws. However, negative hook angle blades are sometimes used for cutting melamine on table saws, reducing the risk of chipping and tearout. For saws that use positive hook angle saws, a larger positive hook angle value on a blade means a more aggressive cut.

Negative hook blades are usually for miter saws, radial arm saws and their variations, because their opposing cutting direction requires an inverse angle to pin the work down.

Zero hook blades are most commonly used for metal applications.

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Bevel Angle-

This measurement only applies to blades with some "bevel" style tooth design (ATB, ATB+R, HiATB, etc.). A steeper bevel angle makes for a finer-cutting saw blade, such as in High Alternating Top Bevel (HiATB) blades.

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Saw Blade Materials

Although there are still some steel blades floating around on the market, most saw blades are manufactured today with carbide teeth.

Carbide is an extremely hard but brittle material that is actually a powder before it is infused with metals. Manufacturing processes fuse powdered carbide into steel blade teeth for exceptional strength, sharpness, and durability.

Because carbide is very difficult to sharpen, this also means that most blades must be taken to shops for sharpening these days, but those trips should be fewer and farther between.

Saw blade shoppers will no doubt run into the mighty "Carbide Grade Scale" eventually, which can over-complicate itself in a hurry.

For most power tool accessory uses, the carbide scale advances from C1 to C4. This scale does not suggest quality, but rather, each type of carbide (C1, C2, C3, & C4) is suited for different work.

C1 and C2 carbides are coarser, more impact-resistant than others, but are more susceptible to grinding and friction wear. Because of this, it's most common to see this kind of carbide used in masonry equipment.

C3 and C4 carbides are finer, less impact-resistant, but much more durable against abrasive wear. Look for C3 and C4 carbide in saw blades for the best results.

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Cutting Tooth Style

Cutting tooth style refers to two major things:

1. The shapes of the tops of a blade's cutting teeth (It's best to think of these shapes from a profile view of the blade), and

2. The pattern of differently shaped teeth situated along the blade.

Each of the specific designs of cutting tooth shape and orientation explained below is suited for specific kinds of cuts, materials, and sometimes, saws.

FT (Flat Top)

FT blades are the fastest and coarsest-cutting blades, and they are used exclusively for ripping cuts along the grain of the wood.

FT blades are also called HR blades, short for "heavy ripping," and FTG blades for "Flat Top Grind."

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ATB (Alternating Top Bevel)

Alternating top bevel is a saw blade tooth design that alternates opposing bevel-cut teeth along the blade: one tooth's bevel will face one side of the blade plate, and then the next will face the opposite direction, and so on.

The bevel design makes cleaner edges on the sides of the cut than FT tooth style blades. ATB blades are the most common, because their design puts them about in the middle range of suitable cut styles, and material hardness.

ATB blades are better for crosscutting, although they can handle some ripping as long as the material is not too thick or hard.

They are great for cutting most natural woods, but they can also cut through some harder fabricated materials like plywood, particle board, and laminate, if the material is not too thick.

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HiATB (High Alternating Top Bevel)

High Alternating Top Bevel blades are the same as regular ATB blades except for one difference. The bevel angle on HiATB blades is at a sharper angle than the bevel angle of ATB blades.

This small alteration makes for an even finer, cleaner cut in woodworking applications.

HiATB blades also encounter some limitations with this feature, in that that the steepness of the angle makes the cutting edges of the blade teeth much more susceptible to wear. Also, the fineness of the cut will slow down the feeding speeding of the blade, but these are hardly limitations when the delicacy of the blades is required.

HiATB blades are also commonly used for materials that pose a high risk of breakout and chipping like melamine and veneer. It's a good idea to choose HiATB blades made with the finest, C4 grade carbide for the smoothest cuts and better durability.

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ATB+R (Alternating Top Bevel + Ripping)

Most "Combination" blades are some variation of an ATB+R cutting tooth pattern. The "combination" comes from combining the precision of ATB cutting teeth with an occasional ripping tooth (+R), an FT tooth.

This combination is, most commonly, a series of two pairs of ATB teeth (four teeth total), followed by one FT cutting tooth. Because of this, "Combination" blades are often called "4 & 1" blades as well.

ATB+R blades are also manufactured with different tooth pattern variations. ATB+R also usually have larger gullets for ripping, although their ability to rip thicker material is limited.

Although "all around blades," "Combination" and other ATB+R blades are versatile-but-limited in each area, because they do not necessarily emphasize any one design feature.

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TCG (Triple Chip Grind)

The Triple Chip Grind saw blade design is made for durability. They alternate 1:1 between FT teeth and a special "trapeze" style tooth.

The trapeze teeth on these blades are slightly raised to allow for cleaner cuts than a simple FT tooth can provide, but their low profile also makes them extremely less vulnerable to wear than, say, ATB teeth.

Because of this combination of durability and finer cutting, TCG blades are designed mainly for hard materials like laminates, solid surface, MDF board, plastics, aluminum, acrylic, glued materials, plastics, and other non-ferrous metal cutting. Trying to cut these materials with non-TCG blades risks poor cuts and heavy blade wear, unless such blades are specifically designed for some kind of specialty cut on harder material applications.

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Conclusion

Understanding the saw blade measurements and design features discussed in this article is critical when shopping for saw blades.

Each saw blade is designed for a specific kind of use or uses. Blade buyers will get the best work performance and longest life out of their saw blades when they match its features to the material, saw, and type of cut being made.

Visit our Standard Saw Blades page here at eReplacementParts.com to view our large selection of circular saw blades. Blade searches can be narrowed by the measurements and features discussed in this article for convenient matching.

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What we're about.