The 5412L in Our Shop

Each day our shop repairs a variety of power tools. Some of the power tools we see have maintenance needs, such as replacing a damaged cord, cleaning out debris, lubricating moving parts, or replacing brushes. Other power tools have more complex problems including bad armatures, missing gears, broken safety mechanisms, and just about anything else you may imagine.

Bosh Laser Tracking Dual-Bevel Slide Miter Saw

Model: 5412-L

Today in our repair shop we had the opportunity to perform some simple maintenance issues on a Bosch miter saw. This power tool also arrived with some broken safety parts that required immediate replacement.

This power tool arrived with the following issues:

Temporary Handle Fix

• Broken Linkage
• Broken Lower Handle
• Broken Upper Handle
• Cracked Wheel Guard
• Missing Rubber Rollers (2 were needed for this repair)

Replacement Part Links:

Cracked Wheel Guard

• Linkage: 2610915720
• Lower Handle: 2610915737
• Upper Handle: 2610915738
• Wheel Guard: 2610927694
• Rubber Rollers (2) : 2610915724

Repair Procedure:

1. Remove the broken Linkage
2. Remove the Lower and Upper Handles by removing the screws and the Mounting Hub (the mounting hub is a 2 part metal piece)
   
3. Remove the broken Wheel Guard
4. Attach the new Linkage
5. The Lower and Upper Handles attach together with screws
6. Make sure the wiring for the handle switch fits snug, without kinks
7. Tighten the screws
   
8. Attach the Wheel Guard using the lock nut, if it is too loose, it will rattle. If it is too tight, the Wheel Guard will not slide smoothly
9. Attach one Rubber Roller on each side of the Wheel Guard

When this work is complete, check your angles and make sure your blade lines up square.

Common Power Tool Problems

• Two things that can be easy and affordable to replace are the brushes and the switch. The only thing that stands between you and the inside of many of your power tools is a screwdriver. For more information, check out our article: Replacement Power Tool Parts: Is it the Carbon Brushes or the Switch?

• Check your cord on your power tools. If you find that your cord has signs of wear or is pulling away from the body of your tool, it’s a good idea to replace the cord for your safety and the heath of the tool. For information on how to complete this project, check out our article about Replacing Bad, Cut, or Damaged Power Cords on Your Power Tools.

• For your cordless power tools, check your battery. To test your battery, use a multitester. If it is time to replace your battery, please check out our article about Cordless Power Tool Battery Disposal and Recycling.

eReplacementParts.com Repair Forum
Many tips and tricks can be found on our Repair Forum, where you are welcome to join, ask questions, and share your knowledge with power tool enthusiasts around the country.

]]> http://www.ereplacementparts.com/blog/2009/06/fix-common-power-tool-problems.html/feed 0 http://www.ereplacementparts.com/blog/2008/12/milwaukee-6507-sawzall.html http://www.ereplacementparts.com/blog/2008/12/milwaukee-6507-sawzall.html#comments Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:13:17 +0000 admin http://www.ereplacementparts.com/blog/?p=82 When a Circular Saw won’t cut it, there is the Milwaukee 6507 Sawzall.   With various speeds, this saw will cut through just about anything you put in the way.  It’s great for cutting in between joists, eaves, corners, nails, metal, concrete, and wood.  Sawzall blades are available for just about anything that you want to cut.

Milwaukee is known for their powerful, high-quality tools, and the 6507 Sawzall is no exception. With this model, you can pivot the blade to cut at different angles.  The blades are easy to change, and you can remove the power cord [48-76-4008] for storage or easy replacement.  The Milwaukee 6507 Sawzall is versatile, comfortable and powerful.

Probably the most common problem with this saw occurs when the blade clamp [42-68-0073] or the screw [06-75-2402] that holds the blade clamp breaks.

Here is a picture of the blade clamp and the screw:

This is usually due to heavy use over a long period of time. The good news is that these are both cheap parts, and they are easy to replace.

Many of our customers like the size of this saw.  At about 16” you can reach those harder to reach areas, and get the job done.  This saw can handle a good workload, but according to some customers, overheating can happen on larger jobs.  If your Milwaukee 6507 Sawzall overheats, just give it a few minutes to cool down.  Overall, this does not seem to be a big problem – just a small issue on large continuous jobs.

It has a solid 1-1/2 horsepower TEFC Motor [TH1009] that keeps dust and debris out of the motor. This motor isn’t as powerful as what you’d find on a cabinet saw, but it keeps up with the more expensive contractor’s saws. The rip fence [TH1019] is accurate, and it repeats cuts remarkably well for a stock fence – this accounts for a lot of the value of this saw, and it’s a big reason for it being so highly recommended by so many.

The saw cuts dadoes with excellent precision, although the shape of the arbor on older models doesn’t allow it to handle stacked dado blades. Newer models of the saw have fixed this problem by replacing that arbor, and the new arbor is both available and interchangeable with the older models.

Ridgid’s Herc-U-Lift mobile base comes standard with every TS3650. The base’s adjustable height, solid thick steel construction, mobility, and small footprint make this saw easily to move and work with in both workshops and job sites.

Great design, solid construction and a low price make this table saw one of the best purchases any woodworker can make, and, as always, Ridgid TS3650 parts are available here at eReplacementparts.

We want it to be a place where you can ask questions about power tools, and anything related to power tool repair.

Power tools are complicated; many have hundreds of little parts that are specific to each tool. To add to this, manufacturers are constantly making changes and revisions to tool models. While each new revision is a better version of the tool, it makes getting the right parts to you even more difficult.

We hope that our Power Tool Repair Forum will become a place where users can ask questions and get answers about replacement parts. We will try to highlight common problems and solutions based on the questions that we get asked most.

The most important part of all this is that we get to hear from you. By making the forum a two way communication tool, you can share your knowledge and experience as well. As a company we do our best to be a good resource and answer emails, phone calls, etc. However, we do fall short because we only have so much time in the day and we only come across a small percentage of the problems out there. This means that we need your help! Please ask questions, but also please help answer questions too. You may have a solution, or an idea, or a thought that we would never have come up with.

As always, we welcome your suggestions. The forums will also be a place where you can express criticism for our site, and for our business. If we are falling short, let us know. We know that the best way to improve is to take a real hard look at the job we are doing, and not be afraid to be told that we can do better.

A lot of cordless drills require the removal of the chuck for repairs, especially when repairing the gearbox or torque selector collar. This little guide should help. Please remember that these instructions only work for threaded-on chucks and not taper-fit chucks (almost all cordless drills have threaded chuck spindles). These are helpful hints only and I’m not responsible for any mistakes or mishaps which might happen while removing your drill’s chuck. Please use caution and common sense.

Remove the chuck screw
In many drills there is a small screw deep inside the jaws of the chuck. This screw helps hold the chuck onto the spindle during operation, preventing it from spinning off. Check to see if you have a screw inside your chuck’s jaws. Depending on the brand and model of your drill, you may have to use an allen key, torx driver, or a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. The most important thing to remember is this: the chuck screw is reverse-thread. You will have to spin the screw clockwise to remove it. This reverse threading helps to act against the torque of the drill and keep the screw tightly connected.

Prepare to remove the chuck
A lot of people are surprised that the chuck doesn’t just thread off the spindle once the chuck screw is removed. In reality, the chuck is usually torqued very tightly onto the spindle and it cannot be easily removed. Most of the time it’s so tight that the chuck screw can fall out and the drill will operate normally.

You’re going to have to bring out the heavy artillery for this one. You’re going to need a large 90-degree allen key like this one:

Use the largest allen key that your drill’s chuck can accommodate. With most drills this will be a 1/2″ key (pictured above) but some drills can only accommodate a 3/8″ key. Chuck-up the key as pictured below:

Put the short end of the allen wrench into the chuck and let the long end of the wrench hang out. Tighten the chuck down completely.

Bring out the hammer
You’re going to have to hit that allen wrench. Use the flat side of a hammer and hit the end of the wrench (as pictured above). Make sure that the blow will spin the chuck counter-clockwise. Sometimes a chuck is attached very tightly and you may have to hit the wrench hard. Swing through. Sometimes it takes a few swings to loosen the chuck. When you’ve succeeded the chuck will probably spin around a few times and come to a rest on the spindle. You’re done!

Click here to find replacement drill chucks. The finished project should look something like the image above. Good luck!