Blade Driver Asm 106-3987

Remove blade. Tap off old blade driver arm. Place keyway and tap blade driver arm onto shaft. Bolt blade on. You are ready to mow.

1. Remove belt guard, blade, and belt.
2. Attach gear puller to blade driver assembly (pulley) utilize the blade bolt as a place to set the puller center button.
3. Apply pressure with a wrench to the puller. The puller may or may not be adequate to remove the pulley. In which case apply heat to the pulley assembly just on the sleeve portion of the assembly in front of the pulley. Keep the heat away from the crankcase to avoid heat damage to the seal.
4. Upon removal of the old assembly, you will find a special spacer inside of it required for the new assembly. It may fall out or you may have to tap it out, but remember you will need it.
5. Reverse the procedure for assembling, use a little anti-seize on the crankshaft and use the blade bolt to draw the driver assembly onto the crankshaft.

1. Took the old parts off.
2. Put the new ones on.
3. Had to use a gear puller to remove blade drive assembly.

Ruptured drive assembly after running over a well hidden tree stump. Quarter size hole where the keyway used to be. Had to beat the thing with a 32oz
hammer like a mad because of short stroke clearance. ( yes I tried prying with 2x4 and crowbar, dont own a puller big enough). Upon removal I inspected and cleaned the shaft then lubricated it with greaseless spray, inserted the spacer into new drive and aligned the key way and it pushed on about an inch before it stopped cold, placed 2x4 on drive and hit it with aforementioned 32oz hammer like it owed me money, and drive slid right on. Hooked belt and installed blade in the usual way and righted the mower. Let the mower sit for a couple of hours to allow oil to settle, checked oil and gas then cut the grass. BTW pull the plug wire whenever I work on blade end stuff and use cardboard to catch any fluid when turned on side. All in all a $42 repair job on an 8 year old mower beats $400 for a new one.

Removed old rod shield with a pair of pliers then removed the trailing shield. Then replaced the trailing shield and inserted the new rod shield threading it through the trailing shield. Less than 5 minutes only used a pair of pliers.

replaced the two parts, then found it was actually the gears on the drive shaft that was causing the problem.

PARTS ORDERED FIT PERFECTLY, AFTER REMOVAL OF OLD DRIVER ADAPTER THE NEW PART TAPPED ON THE DRIVE SHAFT WITH THE WELDED IN KEYWAY.. AFTER REPLACING THE BLADE, THE MOWER WAS RETURNED TO IT'S FORMER GLORY AND READY FOR THE NEW CUTTING SEASON

Removed and replaced the mower blade and front wheel drive coupling

The new parts were installed (slipped on) very easily. The lawn mower now works and I just mowed the front and back yards.

1. Put new parts on with the blade that I had sharpened. Changed oil. Every thing went fine.
Parts diagram for replacement parts was a great help.